Wildlife Loop!

Archived Entry from American Nomad Experiment: 08/24/09 Part II:

Custer State Park's Wildlife Loop is a must for any family trip to the Black Hills.  I have been to many National and State Parks and I can honestly say you won't find a better scenic drive than the Custer Loop.  The scenery varies from extremes of arid plains fit for prairie dogs to high rocky and forested cliffs perfect for Mountain Goats and Mountain Lions.  Custer's wildlife and foliage is diverse.  The reason wildlife and plants have flourished here is because of Custer's land and wildlife management - considered one of if not the best in the nation.  They go to extremes to ensure the animals and forests are perfectly managed to ensure nature will be able to work at its best.

There are two ways to start the Loop: either east from Legion toward the Peter Norbeck Visitor Center or South towards Blue Bell.  My mom and I opted to go the southern route first.    This route starts by going through a high curvy over pass offering views of the surrounding valley and adjacent mountain peaks.  It was here that we saw a few Mule Deer gracefully leaping up a nearby bluff.  We continued on, passing Blue Bell, another lodging area with camping, cabins and a delicious restaurant.  

Shortly after Blue Bell the topography changes from mountainous forestry to open arid prairie.  The plains are vast and underbrush is coupled with wildflowers.  A Prairie Dog town is listed on the map, however has since been abandoned as flooding forced the prairie dogs to move further east on the wildlife loop.  Yes it turns out prairie dogs can swim!  A neat hike is roadside aptly named:  "The Prairie Trail"  This 3 mile loop gives hikers access to a mix of riparian and grassland habitats and one of the most beautiful wildflower displays in America.  A worthwhile hike.  We hope to do it during our stay  - I would advise that you bring lots of water and try hiking at dawn or late afternoon as even through the car windshield the sun blazes on you like a wildfire.

As we drove through the prairie landscape we encounter the Pronghorn.  They are so graceful and agile - fast becoming a wildlife favorite of me and my mom!  We also saw begging burros - a Custer Tradition and one animal in the park you can get up close and personal with.  These burros are descendants of domesticated burros who used to take tourists up to Harney Peak and other area locations.  They were then released into the wild and these are their offspring.  They are friendly and love causing traffic jams as they "beg" for food.  As always show them respect and they will respect you.  I got really peeved when an impatient driver tried to maul them all down.  Parks aren't for speed and it irks me when people are in such a hurry they put wildlife and themselves at risk.  

As the loop curves northward toward Game Lodge the Valley mixes more with forest and creeks, as mountains and cliffs cradled the valley floor.  It was at Game Lodge we finally ran across the herd of Bison.  Custer has one herd and except for a few lone bulls they all move around together and when they camp at Game Lodge they take the place over.  In a Buffalo jam it's important to be patient and respect the wildlife.  Honking at them won't make them move any faster, it will actually scare them and could cause an attack.  They know you're there and are working on getting out of the way - just enjoy the ambiance and be patient - you're on vacation after all :)

After the wildlife loop we made a quick stop at Legion's General Store to load up on ice and milk before heading back to the campground.  After taking a shower I journaled by lantern light until the bugs got to be too much to handle. Not as many people here tonight as many kids are back in school this time of year.  There is a nice Mennonite family across the way from us.  They are very friendly and their kids are so polite!  

I put up my journal and try to get some sleep.  Our car has been making a funny humming noise every time the engine is off - I think it's the leveler, but we're going to take it into Custer (the town) tomorrow to find out what's up the car.

Here's a brief description on Custer Wildlife:

White-Tailed Deer: White-tailed deer live mainly in the timberlands.  As its name implies, the whitetail deer has white hair on the underside of its tail.  When the animal runs, the tail is flipped up and looks like a waving flag.

Mule Deer: These deer are named for their large ears.  They have black-tipped tails, which are short and narrow, and are carried down when the deer runs.  They jump as if bouncing.

Mountain Goats: The mountain goats in Custer are mainly visible on Harney Peak or outside of the park in Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse.  The Mountain Goat was not found in SD until 192 when it was introduced to the Black Hills.  They populate the granite outcroppings and crags around the Needles.  The mountain got is unique to North America and not a true goat.  They are all while with a dense wool undercoat and long outer coat of hair.  Both sexes have slender, sharp, black horns.  I haven't seen one in Custer, but I've been up and close with a few in Glacier and Yellowstone in MT and WY.  They are neat animals!  They have perfect footing for living atop crags and eating alpine shrubbery.

Bison (or American Buffalo): Custer is home to nearly 1500 head of North American bison.  Bison can grow to 6 feet tall and weigh more than 2000 pounds.  They have a short tail and a tassel with a hump at the shoulders, curved black hons on the sides of the head and dense shaggy dark brown and black hair around the head and neck, resembling a beard.  Bison used to range in the millions in North America, but populations had dwindled to less than a 1000 by 1900. Early Park enthusiast Peter Norbeck recognized the problem and in 1914 brought Bison to what would become Custer State Park to live on a Game Sanctuary.  The 36 head originally introduced escalated to a population of 2,500 by 1940.  Soon they had over population problems and therefore began the Buffalo Round-up an annual event, in which park bison older than ten years are sold at auction to ensure that the population gene pool stays healthy and is managed appropriately.

Pronghorn: Often incorrectly called antelope, live mainly on the open grasslands. The name pronghorn is derived from the bucks large pronged horns.  They have broad white stripes across a reddish brown coat.  Known for their remarkable endurance, these animals can run up to 40 mph for great distances.

Bighorn Sheep: One of the coolest animals around.  They are distinguishable by their  rounded horns.  The males thick and curled, the womens smaller and not as curled.  The South Dakota Bighorn sheep became extinct in 1922 and it was decided to reintroduce the animal to Custer State Park.  Unfortunately in recent years the population has dwindled to 18 as the entire herd caught a cause of the flu from farm livestock accidentally smuggled into the area.  They are visible, but have a tough fight to keep their population strong.  Custer has given as many as they could flu treatment shots to ensure their sustainability.

Prairie Dogs: My favorite animal :) the black-tailed prairie dog is found on the dry upland prairie and is a rodent that lives in large social groups called towns.  The round mound of dirt surrounding the prairie dog hole keeps rain water from running into the burrow and serves as an observation post to watch for danger.

Coyote

Mountain Lions are in the park but rarely seen, when visible it is usually at night

Bobcats: also nocturnal and rarely seen

Wild Turkeys 

For more info on the Park and it's wildlife check out the digital Tatanka Guide

Archived Entry from August 23rd 2009

We woke up this morning at nine a.m. to a gorgeous day in Custer State Park.  The campground was bustling as fellow campers prepared their breakfast.  Since it's a Sunday, many of the campers are leaving today and were packing up their supplies and taking down their tents.  After going to the nearby Vault toilet to change into a fresh set of clothes we prepared a breakfast of raisins, cereal and diet coke.  Not the most nutritious meal in the world, but it filled the palette.

After breakfast, we relaxed around the campsite for the next hour, discussing our trip and reviewing the Tatanka, Custer State Park's well-written visitor's guide.  Tatanka is Lakota for Bison, the symbol of Custer State Park.    In its 71,000 acres, Custer offers a variety of outdoor and family activities including hikes, boating, swimming and wildlife viewing.  During our stay we hope to experience as much of the park as possible.

At ten-thirty we decided to drive over to Legion Lake, which is approximately a five minute drive around twisty curvy roads, rock walls and thick pine forests.  Legion Lake Lodge dates back to 1913 when Custer State Park was a game preserve in the Custer State Forest.  This location was leased at the time by the local American Legion post, giving the lodge it's time.  The lodge is comprised of stone walls and Ponderosa Pine.  

Legion Lake is a tranquil man-made lake, from the nearby Galena Creek.  In my opinion, Legion offers the best economy lodging for families at Custer.  Families can choose between cabin rentals at affordable rates or a convenient campground.  A playground, beach area and area hikes makes this the perfect spot for kids and adults alike.

After checking my email and grabbing a cup of coffee in the Legion Lake Dining room, my mom and I headed west on Highway 16 into the town of Custer.

Downtown Custer is charming, with streets lined with restaurants, shops and coffeehouses.  Many of the buildings are original to the town and date back to the 1880s.  I suggest checking out the architecture of the 1881 Courthouse, which is open for tours on Custer's history and The Bank: one of the oldest buildings in Custer, it was built as a bank in 1881, eight years before SD became a state. Today it is a Steak and Ribs joint by night and coffeehouse by day.

As we strolled down Main Street Custer, my mom and I started to get hungry. I  guess a breakfast of trail mix and diet coke doesn't hold well :)  We decided to stop for a bite to eat at The Elk Lodge,  one of the many delicious dining options downtown.

The decor was laid back western with Old-West photos and park ambiance.  It is a family friendly establishment with an Americana menu.  For lunch I opted for a burger and their famous homemade BBQ chips and my mom settled on a chicken sandwich.  The food was delicious and the server was friendly.  I would definitely recommend this restaurant to any visitors to Custer.

After lunch we stopped by Pamida, a Wal-Mart like discount chain geared toward smaller towns.  We purchased a cooler, batteries, an extra storage bin and cough drops (yes I'm battling a nagging cold and cough drops are my salvation).   We also loaded up on some more non perishable items at the Dakota Mart, and Custer Market.  The latter offers fresh produce and Gluten Free items ( My mom and I both have Celiac Disease, which mean we can't eat gluten, which is found in wheat products).

Since the weather was so perfect at eighty degrees and little humidity,  we decided to stop by Stockade Lake on the way back to CL for 1.5 mile loop.  Stockade Lake is the largest lake in Custer State Park.  It is a perfect spot for boaters, swimmers, hikers, and picnickers.  After turning into the southeast entrance for Stockade Lake we drove several hundred feet before pulling into the turnout beside the trail head.  We then grabbed our Nalgene water bottles and hit the trail.

The Stockade Lake Trail is a 1.5 loop, which ascends one of the mountain hills surrounding the lake before looping back down.  The path offers a variety of striking views of the lake below, and immersion into the natural forestry of the park.  From the ridge top you can also catch views of Harney Peak in the distance, which is the tallest peak east of the North American Rockies and west of Europe!  

While on the hike we met a friendly retiree from Colorado who was vacationing in the area with her husband.  We spoke for about ten minutes before she headed back down the ridge and we continued our ascension.  The altitude is stifling at first, leaving one gasping for air.  The air is thin here and even for the most athletic takes some getting used to.  Still we pressed on, taking our time as the trail weaved through the Ponderosa Pine Forest.  

It took us an hour and a half to complete this hike.  Despite the short distance, this is a  Moderate to Strenuous hike as you do have to climb some and deal with a lot of rock on the trail, and you do have to deal with a decent altitude change.  I recommend this hike, however if you have trouble breathing you might want to choose one of many other Custer hikes, which I will no doubt be journaling on later.

We returned to our car just before four o'clock, and headed back to our campsite.  We made a quick stop at Legion on the way "home" to pick up a bag of ice for the cooler. Shortly after retuning to our campsite the Park Personnel came by to collect the $16.00 camp fee.  

As dusk settled into night we munched on chips and salsa and wine.  Clouds began to roll in around nine-thirty, and just after bed it began to rain.  We had to rush outside to cover up all of our food and put my guitar into the car.  The wind was ferocious as it howled in and lightning struck through the trees.  After thirty minutes the tempest faded back to clear skies and I fell into sleep, ready for another full day tomorrow.

Custer State Park: Day One

This is the final segment of my Archived entry for August the 22nd 2009.  

My mom and I departed Crazy Horse just before five.  The sun was still shining bright, amidst a cloudless sky.  From Crazy Horse we headed south about ten minutes before reaching the charming town of Custer, a gateway town to Custer State Park.  The town of Custer is filled with quality restaurants, shops and museums.  Several chain hotels are also in the area for those who don't wish to stay right in the park.  I highly recommend lodging at Custer or Custer S.P. for the whole of your Black Hills stay as the lodging is quality and affordable.  Custer and Custer SP are convenient to all area attractions including Mt. Rushmore, Wind Cave, Hot Springs, Jewel Cave and a day trip to the Badlands.

The town has a population of approximately 1800 people.  It was founded in 1875 after Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer's Calvary found trace amounts of gold in the region in 1874 (gold was never abundant in the region however and mining did not yield much profit except in the Deadwood area, north by some fifty miles).

Right outside of town you'll find the entrance to Custer State Park, one of the oldest and best State Parks in America!  A $12 admission fee (good for the week) will gain access to a wide variety of outdoor activities.  It encompasses over 71,000 acres and is filled with wildlife, lakes, mountains history and historical hotels and lodges and campgrounds fit for any budget.  Custer was begun in 1919 and has played hosts to Presidents and Dignitaries.  

It's use of forestry and parkland management is the best in the National and State Park System!  Frankly I'd never heard much of Custer S.P. prior to this trip, but during my three week stay in it's vicinity I fell in love with the land, and the Park's Tourism operations.  Custer is a must vacation for any family!

That being said we came into the park not sure what to expect.  We couldn't afford another night in a motel and kind of splurged on our tourism at Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse (worth the money).  Camping seemed a viable option, however we weren't sure we'd be able to find a camping spot so late in the day.  Luckily Center Lake Campground had lots of spaces available.  So my mom and I drove the Oldsmobile ten or so miles through immaculate greenery, and mountain valleys.  Along the way we passed two lakes: Stockade Lake and Legion Lake.  The latter is the site of a campground and cabin rentals.  Legion also has a store and excellent restaurant.

Center Lake is a first come first serve (no reservations) campground.  It is very large and very peaceful.  We found a spot in the upper loop perfect for setting up camp.  I will admit we are not the most prepared campers.  We have no tent and very little in terms of cooking supplies.  Still our learning curve is quick and our fortitude great.

We picked up conversations with a neighboring camping couple from Texas who gave us the scoop on where the showers were, places to eat and grocery shop and fun things to do in the area.  They also informed us how to pay for the campsite.  

My mom and I unloaded a few items in an effort to reserve our campsite before returning to Custer to purchase some food supplies at the in-town grocery store: The Dakota Mart.  The store isn't super large, but offers a decent selection of food (although they have no deli meat), wine (very key in camping :) and camping supplies such as flashlights and wood for the fire.  

My mom loaded up on food such as chips and salsa, marshmellows, chocolate, juice, cereal, milk ice, etc...we really can't store refrigerated food well, so it looks like we'll do our best to ice down the food and make trips into town when we need to.

After shopping, we headed back into the park.  Hungry for a sit down meal, my mom and I opted to split a steak at The Legion Lake Lodge.  For dessert we indulged in Land O'Lakes Ice Cream - seriously some of the best ice-cream I've EVER had!  

After dinner my mom and I headed back to our campsite and relaxed a bit before night fall.  It starts getting dark around nine and is pitch black by ten.  It is so peaceful, to go to sleep with millions of stars visible overhead and the occasional sound of the wind.  

Here are a few Custer SP links:

Custer - The Town

Custer State Park

Future Archived entries regarding Custer will focus on our adventures in the area and also profile activities and lodging options within the vicinity!