Jewel Cave National Monument

Tuesday August 25th 2009 - Archived Entry:

We woke up to see two Mule deer grazing on the threshold of the forest before the pair gracefully disappeared into the woods. Early morning is quiet and peaceful in Custer State Park. As I got out of the car I breathed in the fresh mountain air. The time on my cell phone read 8:30. After getting freshened up I headed over to our picnic table and ate a breakfast of Rice Chex and drank our last Diet Coke.

After several hours of relaxing and organizing our campsite my mom and I drove into the town of Custer around eleven to find out what's going on with our car, which has been making an unusual humming noise when the engine is turned off. A local mechanic was able to quickly diagnose it as a leveler problem and nothing too major to worry about. Thank God! With a car this old and with so many miles it's hard to know how much life is left in it. It is a great car and I hope we have it many more miles on our journey.

Once we got the car checked out we decided to eat at Cattleman's, a Custer establishment before heading to nearby Jewel Cave National Monument. Cattleman's is one of the best restaurants in The Black Hills and one of the best meals I've eaten for the money period. t has a great menu comprised of Ribs, BBQ Chicken, Steaks and Salads. The prices are mostly under $10 and the food is high quality. For under $20 we feasted on two delicious meals. I opted for the BBQ Chicken, hand cut fries and side salad, and my mom ordered ribs. The atmosphere is family style dining with a very friendly staff. They also have a nice gift shop with South Dakota themed merchandise.

A Little History...

After lunch we headed to Jewel Cave National Monument, which lies 16 miles west of Custer off Highway 16. With 149 miles of mapped passageways, Jewel Cave is the second longest cave in the world, after Mammoth Cave in KY. It was discovered in 1900 by Frank and Albert Michaud, two local homesteaders who lived in the area. While exploring Hell's Canyon, a valley adjacent to the cave, the brothers noticed a small hole in the canyon wall, too small for human entry, with a blast of cold air coming out.  The brothers subsequently enlarged the hole with dynamite and entered the cave with Charles Bush, a friend of the family.  Together they discovered crawl ways and low-ceiling rooms coated with beautiful calcite crystals, which they described as sparkling like "jewels" in lantern light. 

The jewel like formations in the cave, calcite crystals, have little commercial value, but the brothers filed a mining claim in Custer in Oct. 1900 with the intent to open up the natural wonder as a tourist attraction.  During the following decade, they constructed a trail within the cave and built a lodge on the rim of Hell Canyon to attract visitors.  Unfortunately a lack of local population and the isolated location didn't bring in the expected tourists.  

However, a lack of people in this region and the difficulty of travel at that time made the tourist venture anything but a financial success. Frank Michaud bought out Charles Bush's share of the cave in 1905 for $300. For a while, Frank continued to work at the cave, exploring and keeping up the annual assessment work.  

A local campaign to preserve Jewel Cave and prevent future destruction of this monument culminated in President Theodore listing the cave as a National Monument in 1908.  The Michaud brothers sold their claim to the government for $750. 

Although Jewel Cave was designated as a National Monument as early as 1908, the National Park Service did not begin offering tours of the cave until 1939. Tourists to Jewel Cave today can still visit the  log cabin became home to the monument's first permanent ranger in 1941. 

As recently as 1959, it was believed that Jewel Cave only had two miles of of cave to be explored.  And although the known cave was beautifully decorated with calcite spar crystals, the shortness of the tour made someone wonder if this small cave was truly a monument worthy of national significance.  That all changed when geologist Dwight Deal enlisted the aid of two rock-climbing enthusiasts, Herb and Jan Conn to help explore the cave.  The Conn's were dedicated to exploring and mapping new passages.  By the late 1970s the Conn's had mapped over 64 miles of cave trail before retiring.  Spelunkers continue to explore the cave and to date 149 miles of KNOWN passages have been mapped out.  Many of the passages are very treacherous and only a few cave tours are open to the public, each offering a unique view of this exquisite cave.

The Canyon Trail

It was one o'clock when we officially arrived at Jewel Cave N.M.  The entrance of Jewel Cave sits atop of a steep ridge top and offers amazing views of the nearby mountains and prairie.  After parking our car we headed up to the ticket booth to pick out a Cave tour and order our tickets.  It turned out that all of the cave tours were booked until 4:25 p.m.  In the summer Jewel Cave is a popular attraction and it helps to call for cave tour reservations.  Since we decided on the spur of the moment to tour the cave, waiting a few hours to get in was fine.

To pass the time we opted to hike the Canyon Trail, which starts off at the Visitor's Center and winds down into Lithograph Canyon and then into Hell Canyon before looping back by the original cave entrance and back to the visitor's center.  The hike is 3.5 miles and takes two hours.  Bring plenty of water as this hike goes through Hell Canyon, a dry valley floor where the sun is fierce.

The scenery on this trail shows a variety of topography.  As we climbed down the mountainside we were immersed in a sea of greenery and Ponderosa Pine.  At the bottom of the hill, Lithograph Canyon becomes visible.  The small limestone canyon is named due to lithograph's on the rock.  It quickly turns into the larger Hell Canyon, an open prairie, filled with direct sunlight and few trees on the valley floor.  A creek appears and disappears from time to time alongside the path.  The path is filled with tall grasses, and cradled by a gorgeous collection of colorful wildflowers.  While hiking we saw tons of Mule Deer and lots of butterflies!

Because of the heat, hovering close to 95 with the sun beating down, we stopped every ten minutes for water or when we caught sight of the rare shaded Ponderosa pine.  After hiking a good hour on the valley floor the trail twisted upward over a set of steep inclines, by going directly up the canyon wall.  As the trail leveled off, high atop the surrounding area we passed the original entrance to Jewel Cave discovered in 1900.  One of the cave tours explores this entrance by lantern light. 

A few minutes later we entered a forested area where the original Park Ranger log cabin is stationed.  A Ranger was on duty and told us a little more on the history of the cave and discussed the hike we were treading.  From the log cabin it was still another 9/10th of a mile back to the Visitor Center.  All in all this was an enjoyable hike with stunning views of wildlife, prairie, and the exterior of the limestone cliffs, which make the interior cave possible.

Cave Tour

After picking up  few postcards in the gift shop and loading up on water from the nearby foundation we started our Cave Tour.  Out of the many tour options the only one open was The Discovery Tour, a short but informative look at Jewel Cave.  We had an amazing guide, a female in her mid-twenties who offered an interesting and entertaining tour particularly for the families present.  We took the elevator down to a large, airy room with a temperature around fifty to sixty degrees.  The twenty minute talk introduced us to Jewel Cave's natural and cultural history and we were able to view one large room of the cave filled two types of calcite crystal,  the jewels, which give the cave its namesake. 

The geology of the cave revolves around water.   Jewel Cave was formed by the gradual dissolution of limestone by stagnant, acid-rich water. The water caused  a network of cracks that had formed during the uplift of the Black Hills approximately 60 million years ago. The layer of calcite crystals that covers much of the cave walls was created by the re-deposition of calcite from water saturated with the mineral.

After the water that formed the cave drained, speleothems (cave formations) began to form. Jewel Cave contains all the common types of calcite formations, such as stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone, and frostwork, although not in the same abundance as other well-known caves. The dry parts of the cave contain some formations created by the deposition of gypsum, such as gypsum needles, beards, flowers, and spiders. Finally, Jewel Cave contains a very rare formation called a hydromagnesite balloon. Those are created when gas of an unknown source inflates a pasty substance formed by the precipitation of magnesium.

When the tour concluded I thanked our tour guide for such a fantastic introduction to Jewel Cave.  I hope to revisit the Cave and take another tour focusing on a different area of the cave in the future!  

After leaving Jewel Cave, my mom and I made a brief stop in Custer to get gas before heading back into the park.  On the way back to Center Lake we stopped for ice and milk at the Legion Lake store.  We also each got a cup of Land O'Lakes ice cream (Moose Tracks and Praline Pecan).  I can honestly say it's the creamiest and most delicious ice-cream around :)  

For more info on Jewel Cave check out the NPS site! 

Wildlife Loop!

Archived Entry from American Nomad Experiment: 08/24/09 Part II:

Custer State Park's Wildlife Loop is a must for any family trip to the Black Hills.  I have been to many National and State Parks and I can honestly say you won't find a better scenic drive than the Custer Loop.  The scenery varies from extremes of arid plains fit for prairie dogs to high rocky and forested cliffs perfect for Mountain Goats and Mountain Lions.  Custer's wildlife and foliage is diverse.  The reason wildlife and plants have flourished here is because of Custer's land and wildlife management - considered one of if not the best in the nation.  They go to extremes to ensure the animals and forests are perfectly managed to ensure nature will be able to work at its best.

There are two ways to start the Loop: either east from Legion toward the Peter Norbeck Visitor Center or South towards Blue Bell.  My mom and I opted to go the southern route first.    This route starts by going through a high curvy over pass offering views of the surrounding valley and adjacent mountain peaks.  It was here that we saw a few Mule Deer gracefully leaping up a nearby bluff.  We continued on, passing Blue Bell, another lodging area with camping, cabins and a delicious restaurant.  

Shortly after Blue Bell the topography changes from mountainous forestry to open arid prairie.  The plains are vast and underbrush is coupled with wildflowers.  A Prairie Dog town is listed on the map, however has since been abandoned as flooding forced the prairie dogs to move further east on the wildlife loop.  Yes it turns out prairie dogs can swim!  A neat hike is roadside aptly named:  "The Prairie Trail"  This 3 mile loop gives hikers access to a mix of riparian and grassland habitats and one of the most beautiful wildflower displays in America.  A worthwhile hike.  We hope to do it during our stay  - I would advise that you bring lots of water and try hiking at dawn or late afternoon as even through the car windshield the sun blazes on you like a wildfire.

As we drove through the prairie landscape we encounter the Pronghorn.  They are so graceful and agile - fast becoming a wildlife favorite of me and my mom!  We also saw begging burros - a Custer Tradition and one animal in the park you can get up close and personal with.  These burros are descendants of domesticated burros who used to take tourists up to Harney Peak and other area locations.  They were then released into the wild and these are their offspring.  They are friendly and love causing traffic jams as they "beg" for food.  As always show them respect and they will respect you.  I got really peeved when an impatient driver tried to maul them all down.  Parks aren't for speed and it irks me when people are in such a hurry they put wildlife and themselves at risk.  

As the loop curves northward toward Game Lodge the Valley mixes more with forest and creeks, as mountains and cliffs cradled the valley floor.  It was at Game Lodge we finally ran across the herd of Bison.  Custer has one herd and except for a few lone bulls they all move around together and when they camp at Game Lodge they take the place over.  In a Buffalo jam it's important to be patient and respect the wildlife.  Honking at them won't make them move any faster, it will actually scare them and could cause an attack.  They know you're there and are working on getting out of the way - just enjoy the ambiance and be patient - you're on vacation after all :)

After the wildlife loop we made a quick stop at Legion's General Store to load up on ice and milk before heading back to the campground.  After taking a shower I journaled by lantern light until the bugs got to be too much to handle. Not as many people here tonight as many kids are back in school this time of year.  There is a nice Mennonite family across the way from us.  They are very friendly and their kids are so polite!  

I put up my journal and try to get some sleep.  Our car has been making a funny humming noise every time the engine is off - I think it's the leveler, but we're going to take it into Custer (the town) tomorrow to find out what's up the car.

Here's a brief description on Custer Wildlife:

White-Tailed Deer: White-tailed deer live mainly in the timberlands.  As its name implies, the whitetail deer has white hair on the underside of its tail.  When the animal runs, the tail is flipped up and looks like a waving flag.

Mule Deer: These deer are named for their large ears.  They have black-tipped tails, which are short and narrow, and are carried down when the deer runs.  They jump as if bouncing.

Mountain Goats: The mountain goats in Custer are mainly visible on Harney Peak or outside of the park in Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse.  The Mountain Goat was not found in SD until 192 when it was introduced to the Black Hills.  They populate the granite outcroppings and crags around the Needles.  The mountain got is unique to North America and not a true goat.  They are all while with a dense wool undercoat and long outer coat of hair.  Both sexes have slender, sharp, black horns.  I haven't seen one in Custer, but I've been up and close with a few in Glacier and Yellowstone in MT and WY.  They are neat animals!  They have perfect footing for living atop crags and eating alpine shrubbery.

Bison (or American Buffalo): Custer is home to nearly 1500 head of North American bison.  Bison can grow to 6 feet tall and weigh more than 2000 pounds.  They have a short tail and a tassel with a hump at the shoulders, curved black hons on the sides of the head and dense shaggy dark brown and black hair around the head and neck, resembling a beard.  Bison used to range in the millions in North America, but populations had dwindled to less than a 1000 by 1900. Early Park enthusiast Peter Norbeck recognized the problem and in 1914 brought Bison to what would become Custer State Park to live on a Game Sanctuary.  The 36 head originally introduced escalated to a population of 2,500 by 1940.  Soon they had over population problems and therefore began the Buffalo Round-up an annual event, in which park bison older than ten years are sold at auction to ensure that the population gene pool stays healthy and is managed appropriately.

Pronghorn: Often incorrectly called antelope, live mainly on the open grasslands. The name pronghorn is derived from the bucks large pronged horns.  They have broad white stripes across a reddish brown coat.  Known for their remarkable endurance, these animals can run up to 40 mph for great distances.

Bighorn Sheep: One of the coolest animals around.  They are distinguishable by their  rounded horns.  The males thick and curled, the womens smaller and not as curled.  The South Dakota Bighorn sheep became extinct in 1922 and it was decided to reintroduce the animal to Custer State Park.  Unfortunately in recent years the population has dwindled to 18 as the entire herd caught a cause of the flu from farm livestock accidentally smuggled into the area.  They are visible, but have a tough fight to keep their population strong.  Custer has given as many as they could flu treatment shots to ensure their sustainability.

Prairie Dogs: My favorite animal :) the black-tailed prairie dog is found on the dry upland prairie and is a rodent that lives in large social groups called towns.  The round mound of dirt surrounding the prairie dog hole keeps rain water from running into the burrow and serves as an observation post to watch for danger.

Coyote

Mountain Lions are in the park but rarely seen, when visible it is usually at night

Bobcats: also nocturnal and rarely seen

Wild Turkeys 

For more info on the Park and it's wildlife check out the digital Tatanka Guide

Grace Coolidge and Legion Lake Hikes

August 24th 2009: Archived Entry from the American Nomad Experiment

Woke up around eight a.m. to a blue sky and warm breeze.  Monday looked to be another gorgeous day in Custer State Park.  A few minutes after waking up, the Camping Attendants stopped by and we paid for another night at our campsite.  For the next hour and a half my mom enjoyed relaxing at the picnic table, eating a breakfast of cereal and raisins.  I also had a Diet Coke - I'm sorry, but I'm shamelessly addicted to Diet Coke with Splenda.

At a quarter to ten we decided to go on a nearby hike entitled the Grace Coolidge Walk-In Fishing area.  The hike is named after President Coolidge's wife Grace.  Senator Peter Norbeck, an advocate of Custer State Park and the SD Senator during the founding of Mt. Rushmore and Coolidge's tenure invited Coolidge to spent his three week vacation along with Grace in Custer at the State Game Lodge, which we will frequent later this week.  Norbeck's goal was convincing the President of the importance of Mt. Rushmore and its need for funding.  

Coolidge and his wife Grace fell in love with the Black Hills and decided to extend their three-week tenure in Custer to an entire summer turning the State Game Lodge into his Presidential headquarters "or  'The Summer White House" for three months.  Needless to say Cool Cal was impressed enough to help push through Mt. Rushmore Production in 1927.

 This trail follows Coolidge Creek from Center Lake parking lot trail head to the Grace Coolidge campground 3 miles away.  It is a there and back hike (6 miles total), which is mostly flat.  One thing I will say about this hike is that it is geared toward fishermen and you face many large creek crossings en route to the campground. Be prepared to get wet, as you will at times be faced with knee high water.  

The trout stream offers a riparian environment - and is also an excellent trail to examine the mix of prairie meets valley meets water foliage.  Beautiful wildflowers were present trailside along with thick underbrush.  Large Boulders and Pinnacles of thick gray stone cradled the trail and added to the phenomenal beauty.

We hiked for a mile and half in before opting to turn around.  Even though I had on water proof shoes I was in shorts and not particularly geared up for precarious creek crossings.  I still thoroughly enjoyed what became a three mile hike.

After the hike we ate lunch at the Legion Lake Lodge.  I checked my email and our bank account, which isn't in great shape, but we are on super-budget so we'll make it work.  We split a bacon-cheeseburger and fries and drank water.  

After lunch we went on another hike around nearby Legion Lake.  The Legion Lake Loop is roughly a mile and a half and moderate hike (lots of steep inclines and Poison Ivy - yes Poison Ivy is fervent here).  It loops around Legion Lake and offers great views of the surrounding area.  

As we started to hike we saw two Bison crossing the road.  I will be discussing Bison in detail in my next entry.  Bison are North America's largest land mammal weighing over 2000 pounds and although they look docile they can run at speeds of 30 miles per hour.  In my experience with Bison (which is a lot since I used to work at Yellowstone and had a bison sleep by my window every night nicknamed 'George') they are interested in humans and like humans otherwise they wouldn't frequent high traffic tourist spots (especially in YNP), however they deserve serious RESPECT.  They will not attack you (Gore you) unless they feel threatened.  They don't like to be approached or touched by humans. And can you blame them?  How would you feel if some stranger at the mall came up to you and starting poking at you and pulling your hair - you'd push them away!  Bison appreciate humans, but as wild animals they need their space.  They don't mind a photo opt from afar, but they don't want an up close and personal head shot either.  Stay at least 25 yards from Bison at all times - no matter what.  If you see one on the road - keep your distance and let them cross.  In parks like Custer and Yellowstone - the  Wildlife is charge - you're in their HOUSE!  Show some respect!

The hike cut across the Legion Beach to a connector  bridge before ascending and descending the granite boulder ridge cradling the man-made lake (all lakes in Custer are man made, but they fit the scenery so well you'd never know it.)  Steep inclines caused for a little foot maneuvering, but the views were worth it and we definitely got a work-out! 

We finished the hike around three, and with the sun still out for another few hours we decided to go ahead and drive through the Wildlife Loop.  This is an eighteen-mile loop, which takes motor tourists through a variety of topography from pine speckled granite peaks to the hot and dry open grassland of the Custer prairie.  The Black Hills is a place of Grasslands meets Mountains and therefore the rich diversity of geology and topography is seen in extreme beauty here.

The trail is named for the fact that you have the opportunity to see an abundance of wildlife from Bison, to Pronghorn, Big Horn Sheep and even Wild Burros.  Custer has a variety of Wildlife and you can see most of it on this loop.  However, I will note one missing wildlife member from the Black Hills: Bears.  No bears live in the area, which means Custer is one of the few places in the nation where campers can leave their food out at night without hesitation...

If you are interested in the Wildlife Loop follow me to my next entry!

Archived Entry from August 23rd 2009

We woke up this morning at nine a.m. to a gorgeous day in Custer State Park.  The campground was bustling as fellow campers prepared their breakfast.  Since it's a Sunday, many of the campers are leaving today and were packing up their supplies and taking down their tents.  After going to the nearby Vault toilet to change into a fresh set of clothes we prepared a breakfast of raisins, cereal and diet coke.  Not the most nutritious meal in the world, but it filled the palette.

After breakfast, we relaxed around the campsite for the next hour, discussing our trip and reviewing the Tatanka, Custer State Park's well-written visitor's guide.  Tatanka is Lakota for Bison, the symbol of Custer State Park.    In its 71,000 acres, Custer offers a variety of outdoor and family activities including hikes, boating, swimming and wildlife viewing.  During our stay we hope to experience as much of the park as possible.

At ten-thirty we decided to drive over to Legion Lake, which is approximately a five minute drive around twisty curvy roads, rock walls and thick pine forests.  Legion Lake Lodge dates back to 1913 when Custer State Park was a game preserve in the Custer State Forest.  This location was leased at the time by the local American Legion post, giving the lodge it's time.  The lodge is comprised of stone walls and Ponderosa Pine.  

Legion Lake is a tranquil man-made lake, from the nearby Galena Creek.  In my opinion, Legion offers the best economy lodging for families at Custer.  Families can choose between cabin rentals at affordable rates or a convenient campground.  A playground, beach area and area hikes makes this the perfect spot for kids and adults alike.

After checking my email and grabbing a cup of coffee in the Legion Lake Dining room, my mom and I headed west on Highway 16 into the town of Custer.

Downtown Custer is charming, with streets lined with restaurants, shops and coffeehouses.  Many of the buildings are original to the town and date back to the 1880s.  I suggest checking out the architecture of the 1881 Courthouse, which is open for tours on Custer's history and The Bank: one of the oldest buildings in Custer, it was built as a bank in 1881, eight years before SD became a state. Today it is a Steak and Ribs joint by night and coffeehouse by day.

As we strolled down Main Street Custer, my mom and I started to get hungry. I  guess a breakfast of trail mix and diet coke doesn't hold well :)  We decided to stop for a bite to eat at The Elk Lodge,  one of the many delicious dining options downtown.

The decor was laid back western with Old-West photos and park ambiance.  It is a family friendly establishment with an Americana menu.  For lunch I opted for a burger and their famous homemade BBQ chips and my mom settled on a chicken sandwich.  The food was delicious and the server was friendly.  I would definitely recommend this restaurant to any visitors to Custer.

After lunch we stopped by Pamida, a Wal-Mart like discount chain geared toward smaller towns.  We purchased a cooler, batteries, an extra storage bin and cough drops (yes I'm battling a nagging cold and cough drops are my salvation).   We also loaded up on some more non perishable items at the Dakota Mart, and Custer Market.  The latter offers fresh produce and Gluten Free items ( My mom and I both have Celiac Disease, which mean we can't eat gluten, which is found in wheat products).

Since the weather was so perfect at eighty degrees and little humidity,  we decided to stop by Stockade Lake on the way back to CL for 1.5 mile loop.  Stockade Lake is the largest lake in Custer State Park.  It is a perfect spot for boaters, swimmers, hikers, and picnickers.  After turning into the southeast entrance for Stockade Lake we drove several hundred feet before pulling into the turnout beside the trail head.  We then grabbed our Nalgene water bottles and hit the trail.

The Stockade Lake Trail is a 1.5 loop, which ascends one of the mountain hills surrounding the lake before looping back down.  The path offers a variety of striking views of the lake below, and immersion into the natural forestry of the park.  From the ridge top you can also catch views of Harney Peak in the distance, which is the tallest peak east of the North American Rockies and west of Europe!  

While on the hike we met a friendly retiree from Colorado who was vacationing in the area with her husband.  We spoke for about ten minutes before she headed back down the ridge and we continued our ascension.  The altitude is stifling at first, leaving one gasping for air.  The air is thin here and even for the most athletic takes some getting used to.  Still we pressed on, taking our time as the trail weaved through the Ponderosa Pine Forest.  

It took us an hour and a half to complete this hike.  Despite the short distance, this is a  Moderate to Strenuous hike as you do have to climb some and deal with a lot of rock on the trail, and you do have to deal with a decent altitude change.  I recommend this hike, however if you have trouble breathing you might want to choose one of many other Custer hikes, which I will no doubt be journaling on later.

We returned to our car just before four o'clock, and headed back to our campsite.  We made a quick stop at Legion on the way "home" to pick up a bag of ice for the cooler. Shortly after retuning to our campsite the Park Personnel came by to collect the $16.00 camp fee.  

As dusk settled into night we munched on chips and salsa and wine.  Clouds began to roll in around nine-thirty, and just after bed it began to rain.  We had to rush outside to cover up all of our food and put my guitar into the car.  The wind was ferocious as it howled in and lightning struck through the trees.  After thirty minutes the tempest faded back to clear skies and I fell into sleep, ready for another full day tomorrow.

Custer State Park: Day One

This is the final segment of my Archived entry for August the 22nd 2009.  

My mom and I departed Crazy Horse just before five.  The sun was still shining bright, amidst a cloudless sky.  From Crazy Horse we headed south about ten minutes before reaching the charming town of Custer, a gateway town to Custer State Park.  The town of Custer is filled with quality restaurants, shops and museums.  Several chain hotels are also in the area for those who don't wish to stay right in the park.  I highly recommend lodging at Custer or Custer S.P. for the whole of your Black Hills stay as the lodging is quality and affordable.  Custer and Custer SP are convenient to all area attractions including Mt. Rushmore, Wind Cave, Hot Springs, Jewel Cave and a day trip to the Badlands.

The town has a population of approximately 1800 people.  It was founded in 1875 after Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer's Calvary found trace amounts of gold in the region in 1874 (gold was never abundant in the region however and mining did not yield much profit except in the Deadwood area, north by some fifty miles).

Right outside of town you'll find the entrance to Custer State Park, one of the oldest and best State Parks in America!  A $12 admission fee (good for the week) will gain access to a wide variety of outdoor activities.  It encompasses over 71,000 acres and is filled with wildlife, lakes, mountains history and historical hotels and lodges and campgrounds fit for any budget.  Custer was begun in 1919 and has played hosts to Presidents and Dignitaries.  

It's use of forestry and parkland management is the best in the National and State Park System!  Frankly I'd never heard much of Custer S.P. prior to this trip, but during my three week stay in it's vicinity I fell in love with the land, and the Park's Tourism operations.  Custer is a must vacation for any family!

That being said we came into the park not sure what to expect.  We couldn't afford another night in a motel and kind of splurged on our tourism at Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse (worth the money).  Camping seemed a viable option, however we weren't sure we'd be able to find a camping spot so late in the day.  Luckily Center Lake Campground had lots of spaces available.  So my mom and I drove the Oldsmobile ten or so miles through immaculate greenery, and mountain valleys.  Along the way we passed two lakes: Stockade Lake and Legion Lake.  The latter is the site of a campground and cabin rentals.  Legion also has a store and excellent restaurant.

Center Lake is a first come first serve (no reservations) campground.  It is very large and very peaceful.  We found a spot in the upper loop perfect for setting up camp.  I will admit we are not the most prepared campers.  We have no tent and very little in terms of cooking supplies.  Still our learning curve is quick and our fortitude great.

We picked up conversations with a neighboring camping couple from Texas who gave us the scoop on where the showers were, places to eat and grocery shop and fun things to do in the area.  They also informed us how to pay for the campsite.  

My mom and I unloaded a few items in an effort to reserve our campsite before returning to Custer to purchase some food supplies at the in-town grocery store: The Dakota Mart.  The store isn't super large, but offers a decent selection of food (although they have no deli meat), wine (very key in camping :) and camping supplies such as flashlights and wood for the fire.  

My mom loaded up on food such as chips and salsa, marshmellows, chocolate, juice, cereal, milk ice, etc...we really can't store refrigerated food well, so it looks like we'll do our best to ice down the food and make trips into town when we need to.

After shopping, we headed back into the park.  Hungry for a sit down meal, my mom and I opted to split a steak at The Legion Lake Lodge.  For dessert we indulged in Land O'Lakes Ice Cream - seriously some of the best ice-cream I've EVER had!  

After dinner my mom and I headed back to our campsite and relaxed a bit before night fall.  It starts getting dark around nine and is pitch black by ten.  It is so peaceful, to go to sleep with millions of stars visible overhead and the occasional sound of the wind.  

Here are a few Custer SP links:

Custer - The Town

Custer State Park

Future Archived entries regarding Custer will focus on our adventures in the area and also profile activities and lodging options within the vicinity!

"Crazy Horse": A story in stone

  "My lands are where my dead lie buried..." Crazy Horse, Lakota Warrior 

Seventeen miles south of Mt. Rushmore, stands another massive sculpture in stone, that of famed Lakota warrior Crazy Horse.  He was born in circa 1840 into the Ogala Lakota Tribe as Tȟašúŋke Witkó (in Standard Lakota Orthography), which literally translates to "His-Horse-is-Crazy."  During his life he rose to the ranks of a respected war leader and led the fight against the U.S. Calvary and Custer at The Battle of Little Bighorn in 1876.  He was a strong proponent of protecting the Lakota way of life and their traditions.  He was eventually killed by a stab wound on Sept. 5th 1877.  He was buried in the Wounded Knee SD vicinity (his burial location is unknown per his families request)

Crazy Horse Memorial  was commissioned by Ogala Lakota Chief Standing Bear in 1948.  The goal of Standing Bear in commissioning the project was to pay tribute to the Lakota nation who had long lived in the South Dakota Black Hills and consider South Dakota sacred ground.  Though several tribal members expressed concern over the project and whether it would be considered a tribute or an insult to the principles of Crazy Horse.  Most of this criticism has lessened over the years as the monument has become a testament to the Lakota and Plains Indians and educated Americans of all creeds of the importance of early nations to the United States as a nation.

 The Lakota enlisted the assistance of talented sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to design the monument.  Korczak, a noted New England sculptor came to the Black Hills in 1939 to work on Mount Rushmore as an apprentice of Gutzon Borglum.  After serving in WWII, Korczak returned to the Black Hills to work on Crazy Horse in late 1947.

After surveying the land it was decided that Thunderhead Mountain would be the perfect spot for the project as the rock would be good for sculpture/blasting and the site is considered sacred to the Lakota.  Crazy Horse is an ongoing project sixty years in the making.  Crazy Horse is far from completion, but the Ziolkowski family continues to work towards finishing up Korczak's design.  When completed it will be the largest monument in the world.

The sculpture's final dimensions are planned to be 641 feet (195 m) wide and 563 feet (172 m) high. The head of Crazy Horse will be 87 feet (27 m) high; by comparison, the heads of the four U.S. Presidents at Mount Rushmore are each 60 feet (18 m) high.

My mom and I entered the memorial site at a quarter to three.  The cost of admission is twenty dollars per car.  Every dollar goes toward the ongoing completion of Crazy Horse and Native American outreach.  Crazy Horse Memorial consists of an entire campus of attractions educating visitors about the mountain carved in stone, Korczak as an artist/sculptor and Native American history. 

We started off our tour in the 40,000 square foot Welcome Center.  Two theaters offer a twenty-minute introductory video entitled "Dynamite & Dreams," which gives a comprehensive history and attraction information.  I recommend watching the video before pursuing other aspects of the tour.

The Welcome Center also features exhibits and a time line regarding the history of The Crazy Horse Monument and future plans for completion.

Also in the Visitor Complex is The Indian Museum of North America, which pays homage to all Americans of Native American ancestry - not just the Lakota who commissioned the work.  This area showcases over 100 Edward Curtis portraiits of American Indians and photographs of frontier life.  An adjoining room featuring Native American artisans and artists is a must see and an excellent way to learn about the history of Native Americans on the plains and their rich culture.

Hungry?  We stopped by the Laughing Water Restaurant and Snack Shop for a Diet Coke and bag of homemade Kettle Korn.  This is a perfect spot for hungry tourists to relax and indulge in a tasty meal.  I recommend sitting on an outside deck attached to the restaurant.  This deck offers remarkable views of Crazy Horse in the distance and the surround Black Hills area!

Our last stop on the tour was a stop by Korczak's original log home and adjoining studio.  The log studio home was built by Korczak i 1947-48 and is filled with antiques and works of fine art. Although known mostly as a mountain sculptor, prior to moving to South Dakota, Korczak won many awards in New York for painting and his smaller sculpture work.  Plaster copies and original works from his artistic career are on display, giving visitors and instead look into the creative mind of Korczak.

The log home is where Korczak lived with his beloved wife Ruth and their many children until he died in 1984.  Ruth still lives on site and many of there children continue to be active in running the Crazy Horse Memorial and continued sculpture process.  100% of the money raised from admission, donations and gift shop sales goes directly to completion of Crazy Horse and Native American Educational Scholarships.  Unlike Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse is a privately owned non-profit agency/attraction.  This is one reason why the completion process has taken so long.  

However with the help of visitors and donations by corporations, The Crazy Horse dream is being realized.  In 1998, Crazy Horse's head was completed and work has begun on his arms and the horse he will be seen riding on.  Eventually the Ziolkowski family hopes to have a Native American University and Medical Center on site as well.  I look forward to coming back to this attraction in the coming years and monitoring the process of sculpting this exquisite landmark!  A must see for tourists to The Black Hills region.

In my next archived entry I will begin to discuss what became a three week stay in Custer State Park, just south of Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse.

Want to learn more?  Check out the following link!

Crazy Horse Memorial 

Mount Rushmore: A President's View

The wide expanse of Great Plain prairie collides with the rolling Black Hills of South Dakota, just south of Rapid City. The grasslands abruptly move into twisty curvy roads cradled by stone mountains and thick forests. Rivers wind along the canyon and mountain valley floor, offering a rich landscape of immense beauty, which captivates the American spirit of East meets Mountain West.

It's evident how the area is known as "The Black Hills" as when you approach from the high  grasslands from the east - the mountains rise like pillars of black well defined rock having an altitude from 4,000 to over 7,000 feet out of the plains is impressive and begs one to keep driving into the hills.

I think so many people think of the Black Hills of Mount Rushmore, but don't realize how much more there is to the region in the next several weeks I will be recounting my explorations in the region and Custer State Park - one of the oldest and BEST State or National Parks in America. I will be posting on how Southwestern South Dakota is one of the TOP FIVE family vacations bar none!

Today we pick up from where my last entry left off. After leaving Wall SD we headed west on I-90 until we reached Rapid City and then exited off the Interstate before going south to Keystone on Highway 16A - one of the most scenic and older cross county highways in America (It leads all the way to Yellowstone in WY, which I'll discuss later on). Almost instantly the topography changed from plains to a gorgeous green canyon of evergreen and stone. The topography reminds me of a combination of the Blue Ridge Mountains meets the Rocky Mountains.  

Our Oldsmobile started feeling the altitude changes as we gained elevation and subsequently went down into the canyon. So far so good with the Oldsmobile - although I have found changing into a lower gear helps in the mountains.

As much as my mom and I love to camp after four nights sleepy in our car and no real shower - we were ready for the benefits of modern civilization and a hotel room. In hindsight we probably should have stayed outside the main tourist drag as it is a bit more expensive and we only have $772 for three weeks, but I think if you are going to splurge on a hotel room it was worth it to stay right near Mt. Rushmore in it's Gateway town of Keystone.

Keystone is a campy town with a lot of personality. It reminds you of a National Park/Family tourist destination meets old west frontier town. The main drag is lined with discount souvenir shops and a few decent restaurants. I think it's a fun place to visit, but I don't think more than a day is needed in Keystone and would recommend exploring other area locations such as Custer or Hill City.

Big warning about Keystone they have weird ATM'S and many restaurants don't take major credit cards - we have a Visa and none of the ATM's (all owned by a local bank) would allow us to withdraw money and several restaurants wouldn't accept our card, although it's a major card. Be warned that just because they say they take VISA they might not accept all Visa cards or Bankcards - so get cash in Rapid City or via the ATM at Mt. Rushmore. We were in a real lurch when the restaurant couldn't read our Visa...

We checked into The President's View Resort, which is in a prime location as it's seats atop a cliff and offers views of the surrounding areas. The room cost $89 per night and included a nice view and nice pool. It is also within walking distance of downtown Keystone.

After bumming around historic Keystone and eating a Mexican dinner we enjoyed relaxing in the room and taking a dip in the the pool. I was so happy to have a bed and shower! We also used the coin laundry to clean our clothes. Overall it was a very relaxing experience and I would highly recommend the hotel.

August 22nd (Part 1 of 2 Part entry)

On August 22nd we woke up around eight and finished our laundry and packed up our car. I'm afraid we brought too much stuff! It was so hard to know what not to bring and what to bring - oh well - the saga of packing and unpacking the car adds a tedious excitement to our day.

My mom and I checked out of our hotel room by eleven and immediately headed to Mt. Rushmore National Monument. Mount Rushmore is become an icon blasted and etched in stone, which has come to be synonymous with American  ideals.  The four faces on the mountainside include four great Presidents spanning from various important segments of American history:

 - George Washington, his head juts out majestically on the left side of the mountainside - a symbol of the beginning of American ideals - and our nation's beginnings.

- Thomas Jefferson: The writer of the Declaration of Independence and America's third President.  Thomas Jefferson like Thomas Jefferson was one of the founding fathers and expressed the ideals of American democracy in the Declaration and also was instrumental in expanding our nation with the purchase of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, which doubled the size of our nation.  

-Abraham Lincoln: A man who led our nation through one of its most difficult trials during the Civil War and fought to keep the U.S. unified, something he was in turn assassinated for.  

- Theodore Roosevelt: At the time of Mt. Rushmore's commissioning many were unsure of Roosevelt's worthiness.  However today it is obvious Teddy deserves his spot in stone.  He helped set aside many of our national parks and embrace quality social change.  It is become of Roosevelt that many of our nation's parks were protected such as The Grand Canyon, Devils Tower/Bear Lodge, among others.  Fun fact President Roosevelt is the first official to enact the mechanical royalty law for songwriters, in which they would be paid  2 cents for each song sold.  The model still is valid today and despite inflation the rate hasn't gone up much.  It is roughly 11 cents today.

The Beginnings of the Rushmore Dream:

The Black Hills are filled with large stone pillars, spires and rock expanses - natural monuments of stone.  The spires and rock are unique and a part of South Dakota's Hill Country.  The idea for Mt. Rushmore dates back to 1923 when a South Dakota State Historian named Doane Robinson got the idea of carving stone sculptures into the Black Hills stone as a way to lure tourists into the region.  Robinson was sure that once Americans from other areas experienced the majesty of the Black Hills they would be hooked for life - and frankly I tend to agree.

Robinson's original idea was to have carvings/monuments of Western heroes such as Bill Cody or Chief Red Cloud.  He enlisted the assistance of Gutzon Borglum, a sculptor who had been working on Stone Mountain in Georgia, a similar concept to Mt. Rushmore only that it features Confederate war heroes, such as Robert E. Lee.  

Originally Robinson and Borglum planned to carve figures into the granite pillars known as the Needles.  However the Needles are subject to heavy erosion and too thin to support sculpting after looking over nearly every rock, spire and natural stone mountain in the region, Borglum picked Mt. Rushmore.  The Mountain was originally named The Six Grandfathers by the Lakota Sioux, but was renamed after N.Y. lawyer  Charles Rushmore in 1885, as he was in business in the Black Hills region.  Therefore Mt. Rushmore is not named in reference to the monument, but from it's original title before the idea of the presidential monument began.

Borglum chose Mount Rushmore, a grander location, partly because it faced southeast and enjoyed maximum exposure to the sun. Borglum said upon seeing Mount Rushmore, "America will march along that skyline."  The rock was also less prone to erosion, only losing one inch of rock every 10,000 years.  However although natural elements continue to force year-round maintenance work o the Mountain to ensure Borglum's inception is not altered by forces of time.

Construction of Mount Rushmore:

Construction of this iconic American monument lasted from October of 1927 to October 1941.  It was commissioned by Pres. Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and given additional funds in 1929.  Coolidge was persuaded by Peter Norbeck, a South Dakota Senator and friend of the President's to support the project.  I will have an entire entry on Norbeck later as he was one of the truly great Americans and was instrumental in preservation of the Black Hills region and also promoting it's tourism industry.  He helped found Custer State Park and also continued to court succeeding Presidents after Coolidge to continue to promote Mt. Rushmore.

In 1933, Mt. Rushmore was placed under the jurisdiction of the National Parks Service.  
 By July 4, 1934, Washington's face had been completed and was dedicated. The face of Thomas Jefferson was dedicated in 1936, and the face of Abraham Lincoln was dedicated on September 17, 1937. In 1937, a bill was introduced in Congress to add the head of civil-rights leader Susan B. Anthony, but a rider was passed on an appropriations bill requiring that federal funds be used to finish only those heads that had already been started at that time.[12] In 1939, the face of Theodore Roosevelt was dedicated.

The project to build Mt. Rushmore cost less than $1,000,000 and provided jobs in the region.  

From Keystone we headed down Highway 244, a scenic road leading up to the entrance of Mt. Rushmore.  The views afforded along the way were stupendous as vistas of the well defined peaks and valleys of The Black Hills were visible in every direction.  Before hitting a sharp curve, which leads to the entrance, a silhouette of Washington's head, framed by the thick forest begs one to pull out at the adjoining roadside turnout.  It is one of the best views in the entire area!

While taking pictures at the turnout we ran into a nice couple from Atlanta Georgia who were visiting their friend who was living in N.D.  We talked about one another's trips and they gave us some tips about our impending journey to Custer State Park. 

The weather today is PERFECT, a cloudless sky with temps in the mid-eighties with no humidity.  As we pulled into Mt. Rushmore the clock in the dashboard read eleven.  

After parking the Oldsmobile we headed up to the main Visitor's area and food court.  Upon entry a long boulevard lined by each state's flag  leads to a visitor's center/food court on the right and gift shop on the left.   The four Presidential heads are fully visible as you walk up the path and continue to become more pronounced as you continue walking.  An amphitheatre graded below the main viewing area offers a better look at the monument and is where a variety of ranger talks and the light show is held every night in the summer!

We were famished so my mom and I started out with lunch.  I opted for a cheeseburger and fries while my mom settled on chicken in broccoli (more healthy than me today).  For dessert we enjoyed raspberry yogurt and mint chocolate chip ice cream.  

After lunch we toured the informative museum, which offers a comprehensive history of the region, Mt. Rushmore, Gutzon Borglum, and a Mt. Rushmore time line.  Definitely try to spend at least forty-five minutes in the museum -it's worth it.  Also check out the interesting twenty minute film about the monument, which is narrated by Tom Brokaw.

Upon completion of our museum tour my mom and I decided to embark on the Presidential Trail, which winds through a scenic forest to offer stunning and intimate views of Mt. Rushmore.  This is a must-do trail if you have the time!  Chipmunks abound to the point they have trailside signs saying "Don't Feed the Chipmunks."  Other wildlife such as Mountain Goats many be visible from afar if you look atop the craggy peaks.  Along the trail you can visit Gutzon Borglum's personal sculpting studio and learn about the process of creating this grand monument.

The Sculptor's Studio—a display of unique plaster models and tools related to the sculpting—was built in 1939 under the direction of Borglum.  Unfortunately Borglum died from an embolism in March 1941. His son, Lincoln Borglum, continued the project. Originally, it was planned that the figures would be carved from head to waist, but insufficient funding forced the carving to end.  Borglum had also planned a massive panel in the shape of the Louisiana Purchase commemorating in eight-foot-tall gilded letters the Declaration of Independence, U.S. Constitution, Louisiana Purchase, and seven other territorial acquisitions from Alaska to Texas to the Panama Canal Zone.

It is interesting to note that within the monumental heads, there is in fact A Hall of Records.  This was done as Borglum thought it was frustrating that monuments from the ancient world did not leave an explanation as to why they were built.  If they did - it was weathered away or forgotten.  He wanted to ensure that future generations would always have a record of why the sculpture was built, the key tenets of American democracy and a history of our country.

A model at the site depicting Mount Rushmore's intended final design. Insufficient funding forced the carving to end in October 1941.  That's fourteen years!  The process of molding the rock to the clear and precise figures we see today took Borglum and 400 dedicated workers who blasted and chiseled the rock in order to form the faces.  Interesting to note despite the dangers of the work not one person died in the construction of Mt. Rushmore (only injuries on record)

We finished up our tour of Mt. Rushmore around two.  My mom and I briefly debated whether or not we should head onto Custer State Park or go ahead and visit Crazy Horse first, another area monument crafted out of stone and hard work.  Both Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse compliment each other and are Must-See attractions in the region.  

We ended up deciding to go onto Crazy Horse as it's on the way to Custer S.P.  I will discuss this in my next entry as like Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Monument has a lot of history which I want to take the time to focus in on.

ARCHIVED ENTRY: August 21st 2009

Archive entry of American Nomad from August 21st 2009:

My mom and I awoke this morning to clear blue firmament over endless prairies and bluffs. Frankly we are a little on edge about the money coming, as we haven't eaten anything in 36 hours except a bag of Reese's pieces. The Sage Creek Campground is a great spot, but I wish we had brought more water. There is no ground water or faucet water on site, which makes it hard to brush your teeth or stay cool from the heat.

After waking up, my mom and I went on an hour long walk in the campground vicinity. We first stopped by the prairie dog town. I seriously could watch prairie dogs for hours on end and NEVER get bored! They are so cute and you can tell they have a great Camaraderie within each town. Prairie Dogs are very social animals and chirp or bark to communicate. Like humans, they kiss and hug as signs of affection and look out for one another. They are quick in movement as they scurry to visit a fellow dog or burrow underground.

Lewis and Clark first mentioned the prairie dog in their journals (although other fur trappers and Native Americans had discovered them before). The Corps was so fascinated by them that they spent an ENTIRE day trying to capture one. Finally after flooding a burrow they succeeded. Lewis and Clark thought the prairie dog was so remarkable that they insisted on carrying a live specimen during their travels until they reached Ft. Mandan. They then sent the first prairie dog specimen back to Pres. Thomas Jefferson at Monticello. The prairie dog survived the journey and when it did die was stuffed and put on display in an east coast museum to pay homage to the American prairie and as a tool for scientist to study the life form.

L&C nicknamed the creature "prairie dog" as the animal's squeal resembles a dog's bark. In actuality, prairie dogs have no relationship to dogs, but rather rodents.

While on our hike we also crossed paths with the same Bison we'd seen the day before. Bison look docile, but I'm here to say that they are extremely agile and can be dangerous. It is important to stay at least 25 yards from any Buffalo you encounter otherwise you may risk being gored. I'll delve into this in a later entry as we reach Custer SP and YNP - who are both known for their bison populations.

We headed out of the campsite by ten. The money is typically deposited into our account by one o'clock. We had used up a lot of gas reaching the campground and could only pray we made it to Wall. As we drove down the gravel road our gauge kept getting lower. It didn't help when I made a wrong turn onto a dirt road, leading outside the park. In the end however we were able to reach Wall, albeit with only a drop of gas left in the tank.

I'll admit we began to worry about our monetary situation as we had no gas money to reach the campground again if the money didn't come. Still we tried to kept a positive attitude and put our trust in God as we eked out the next several hours.

Wall is a charming gateway town located just off I-90 and seven miles west of the Badlands NP. The town's key attraction is Wall Drug, which over the years has become famous for their "Free Water." Wall Drug was founded in 1931 in the midst of the Depression. The area was hard hit as natural disasters and a poor economy left many clinging to life. Out of this however a young couple, bound in faith and spirit purchased a drug store in downtown Wall. It was slow going at first for Dorothy and Ted Hustead who were having a hard time maintain a profit.

One hot summer day as Dorothy watched the automobiles pass down the nearby highway bound for the Black Hills and Yellowstone National Park, she got an idea. The Husteads decided advertise the fact they had free water in their store. They figured it would be a way to draw travelers off Route 16A into their pharmacy. Once inside they would most likely purchase candy or medicine or many of the other items in the storefront.

The idea worked and today Wall Drug averages several thousands visitors on any given summer day. The storefront has grown to include an entire block of stores an attractions. And although I usually don't like gimmicky shops and roadside attractions - Wall is one of the coolest spots I've ever been. It is filled with a variety of shops from an excellent bookstores, outdoor outfitters, and shopping - GREAT shopping (they have beautiful Durango boots and Brighton purses). The food isn't bad either and yes there are plenty of cups for free water everywhere!

My mom and I found a booth in the Cowboy dining room adjoining the grill. Oak booths and tastefully rustic decor added atmosphere to the dining area.

In addition to free water, Wall also has an excellent brew of coffee for only 5 cents! And I'm hear to say that 5 cent coffee saved our lives! Until the money came my mom and I sipped on coffee and read up on Wall's history. We also enjoyed walking through gift shops, picking out postcards to purchase once we had money on the card.

Wall Drug also has a charming chapel, which is filled with stain glass windows and traditional church pews. The Hustead family is Catholic and made sure to create a space in which you can truly worship God. We said a prayer that the money would come and we wouldn't be stranded with a drop of gas and no food for another twenty-four hours.

By the grace of God the money did come. We instantly returned to the grilled and ordered a lunch cheeseburgers and fries. We then indulged in ice-cream for dessert. I opted for a chocolate milk shake and my mom settled on a scrumptious hot fudge sundae.

After eating lunch and purchasing a few souvenirs such as a Wall Drug tee shirt and a book of postcards my mom and I opted to head west another seventy miles towards Rapid City and Keystone South Dakota, the home of the famed Mt. Rushmore...

More on our Mt. Rushmore experience in an upcoming entry

* If you're interested in learning more about Wall Drug and it's history I recommend visiting their website. I've posted a link below.

http://www.walldrug.com/t-history.aspx

August 20th 2009: Archived Entry

Archived Journal Entry for American Nomad experiment:

August 20th 2009:

The air was chilly if not cold after the sun went down on Wednesday night. The sky was cluttered with stars until clouds rolled in around midnight and lifted by the time we woke up at eight a.m. South Dakota only allows a person to spend two to four hours at a rest area - even trucks. Unfortunately with only $15 for gas and a few dollars in change for food we had to take a gamble and spend the night at the rest area. The Chamberlain rest stop was peaceful and fairly modern.

The Chamberlain Rest Area features a nice Visitor's Center to the Mid-State region, also known as the gateway to the west and the Black Hills, which are westbound by several hours. The area, though flat is coupled with colorful rock amidst the prairie and high buttes. The VC is also houses a museum about Lewis and Clark and their time in the region. Here is an excerpt regarding the Corps of Discovery in SD:

1. Sept. 16, 1804

The expedition sets up camp to dry their provisions following three days of rain. Near their camp, the explorers find great quantities of plums and abundant wildlife. Lewis writes: "vast herds of Buffaloe deer Elk and Anitlopes were seen feeding in every direction as far as the eye of the observer could reach." Interpretive sign located at I-90 Information Center of Chamberlain.

The town of Chamberlain is located roughly two hours east of Wall South Dakota and the Badlands National Park. It's population sits roughly around 2200 and is situated on the banks of the Missouri River. The River is magnificent and broad at Chamberlain, it is also at this juncture that the Missouri begins to wind northward towards North Dakota, and we will fall temporarily off the L&C Trail.

In addition to the L&C Center, Chamberlain SD is home to the South Dakota Hall of Fame and very interesting Alta-Lakota Museum and Cultural Center. When traversing I-90 through Chamberlain you'll find excellent views of the topography as you cross over the historical Chamberlain Oacoma Bridge.

We hit the road at eight a.m. with little gas in our tank. As previously stated we are running low on gas and have very limited funds until tomorrow. Our plan is to drive to the Badlands N.P. and camp in the park and spend the day hiking. Despite little food and gas, I can't complain. The sky is a crystal blue expanse with limited clouds and open prairie runs on either side of the highway. It's in scenery like this, though to some plain - I see God's magnificent hand.

Needing gas ASAP we exited nineteen miles west of Chamberlain in Reliance. I like that name - I'm relying on God and my faith on this journey as an American Nomad - I'm having to rely on him and trust that he will protect and provide me and my mom with shelter, food, and comfort no matter how uncertain or twisty the road may become.

I used our remaining cash (we still have a small amount on our credit card - $17) to fill up the tank 3/4th of the way full. I do not want to get stranded without gas - Triple A or not - that is a fate I'd rather not meet. I love the Oldsmobile, but it is a gas guzzler - 17 - 19 mph and costly when you are on the highway...at least it's running though...

After leaving Reliance it was approximately 90 more miles to the Mountain Time Zone (making time move back an hour), and 130 miles to the east entrance of the Badlands National Park.

We ran out of gas right as we pulled off the exit for the Badlands N.P. I charged $10 for gas on the card, leaving us $7 for food. Honestly that $10 didn't give us but a quarter of a tank, but we would make it work.

The Badlands is a GREAT park to visit, especially with the family. It's one of the most unique geological spots in the world and has a unique beauty as sandstone cliffs carved by years of erosion forms a radiant beauty and habitat for wildlife. The Badlands was formed as deposits from the erosion of the Badlands to the west deposited in the region, and then carved by a period in which an ancient sea settled over the region, and wind and storms and heat created this landscape - a landscape that's ever changing.

The region derived the name "Badlands" from early French Fur Trappers who thought the place looked lifeless and water was scarce, early homesteaders also felt the harshness of the land as the prairie ground is not conducive for agriculture (due to heat, deposits, and other natural forces) and it was a hard place to live. Part of this problem with early homesteaders is they didn't utilize the land for what it was and tried to maintain farming practices from back east, instead of figuring out how the land could be used the way it was...The grasshoppers and dustbowl caused problems with farming as well (and yes grasshoppers are EVERYWHERE in the park!)

The Lakota thought of the Badlands as Goodlands although they did refer it to land bad or mako sica. They learned how to use the season and buffalo and adapt to the plains way of life. The Lakota history in the area is inspiring and tragic as Wounded Knee occurred on the Park property.

The Badlands formations come out of the tall green praire grass, transitioning into canyons of sandstone. The features vary in color, height, and at times resemble minarets, castles, mounds and other features. Stratified layers in the fossilized sand stone tell the history of this place. Interestly enough the sandstone formations aren't that old geologically and might only last another few hundred years...as climate and extremities here constantly shape the landscape. However the sediment is old, though recently exposed.

Early on the Badlands became a marquee destination for fossil science. The fossils were collected and sent back east to cities such as Philadelphia and New York and helped push forward the emerging science of palentology. Specimens of many extinct species related to modern day animals such as horses, dogs, and alligators roamed the region.

The Badlands is home to many fossils, however out of all the fossils and multiple discoveries of new animal life, which once lived in the area - NO DINOSAURS - why? Well it's common sense really. The fact is that this area used to be a shallow and ancient sea and therefore - Dinosaurs, except ancient sea specimens would inhabit the area in population - the other animals found were those who lived near water and in a highly tropical environment. Dinosaurs did inhabit areas of N.D. and many specimens have been found in similar formations in the Badlands of Montana (yes Badland formations occur other places, but none are quite as unique as those in BNP).

The park isn't super big, but it's worth taking the time to explore. Bring plenty of water as the weather is extreme. Also wear a windbreaker - as it's very windy and sunscreen to protect from the harsh sun. From time to time it does rain so a rain poncho/jacket is useful to keep in the car or backpack!

There are several ways to enter the park. Costs for entry is $10 -$20 per car, but I recommend the National Parks pass for an annual fee of $80 - it's worth the money as you get into all NPS sites for free and help support our park system (which is poorly funded).

From the East you have Interior and the Northern entrances. We entered via Northern and proceeded through the colorful badland canyons to the Ben Reifel Visitor's Center and historic Cedar Pass Lodge. The VC is much nicer than when I first visited the park five years ago in 2004. It has top notch exhibits - great for the entire family. It's also a welcome spot to take a break from the Summer heat. The Rangers are helpful and can offer lots of advice on hiking and drive tour routes. The exhibits and video on the park are a must view for any visitor.

With are $7 left on the card we really couldn't afford a meal at the Lodge and needed to keep a few dollars left on the card in case we needed more gas before our money came. We opted for a lunch of Reeses Pieces (hey Peanut Butter is protein right?) and filled up our Nalgene bottles with water.

For the next several hours we toured the various turnouts and hiked up several small boardwalk paths including the Fossil Trail Exhibit (great for kids and adults), The White River Overlook, the Yellow Mounds Overlook, Pinnacles Overlook and many more Panoramic spots

After touring the main loop road and turnouts we decided to head on to the Sage Creek Campground, which is located off a gravel road - a little bumpy for smaller cars, but a great way to really experience off the beaten path attractions including wildlife viewing of Prairie Dogs, Buffalo, etc....

We briefly stopped at Robert's Prairie Dog Town. Prairie Dogs are amazing creatures who are sadly treated by ranchers, I'll go into more detail about this issue at another time. The prairie dog is a keystone species for the nearly extinct Black-Footed Ferret in the Badlands, and other animals in the region as they use their burrows for protection and Bison prefer land where the PD's have been because their burrow helps bring up the nutrious portion of the grass stalk. The Black Footed Ferret was thought to be extinct until a Wyoming resident uncovered some pups, they eventually began to reintroduce the BFF into the wild. The reintroduction in the park has been a success due to the presence of the Prairie Dog. The ferret is rarely seen, but is in the landscape - coming out at night and leaving it's mark on the landscape.

The BFF feeds only on PD's - so when ranchers shoot Prairie Dogs it has an adverse affect on the entire prairie environment and for the record - any arguments ranchers have for killing/poisoning prairie dogs is inaccurate and unwarranted - I'll discuss this later.

En route to the Sage Creek Campground we saw several bison. Bison are the largest land mammals in North America. I'll discuss them once we get to the Custer State Park and YNP logs.

The campground is really in the Middle of nowhere - but is also one of the coolest spots to camp. A prairie dog town is right next door, along with high bluffs and wide plains. The wind was ferocious at best, nearly blowing me down like a pixie stick and it blew it's windsong. It was hard to think about anything, standing on our campsite except negating the power of the wind. It entered my ears and my lungs. We quickly realized setting up a picnic area with our books and my notebook was next to impossible. Instead we chose to walk against the wind, visiting the Prairie Dog town and walking up a ridge. We also saw a lone Bison guarding the gates to the campground.

I honestly wanted to stay awake and look at the wide expanse of stars fill the sky as the sun faded into night, but I was exhausted. The travel and stress of the move had worn me thin. With the wind whistling like a lullaby, I fell asleep at seven and didn't wake up until daybreak...

Links:

http://www.chamberlainsd.org/

http://www.sdgfp.info/Parks/LCtrail/Timeline.htm - Lewis and Clark in South Dakota Guide

Badlands info: http://www.nps.gov/badl/

On Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Badlands_National_Park

American Nomad: August 19th 2009 Entry

Rain on the rooftop and a cloudy sky started day two in my life as an American Nomad.  We spent the night at a rest area just outside of Council Bluffs. I will note that Council Bluffs is a stop on the Lewis and Clark trail, as the Corps stopped here and met with the Otoe tribe.  After waking up and getting washed up, my mom and I hit the road around ten.    

We have only $25.00 left on our card, using most of our cash on gas.  McDonald's Dollar Menu has been a life saver.  We still have two days until we get paid and are debating how to get through them.  For now we drive on and enjoy the scenery.

The sky began to learn up as we continued north toward Sioux City on I-29.  We stopped for a quick lunch @ Mickey D's.  The chain was situated on the edge of a expansive cornfield.  The sky had cleared by now, and a bright blue sky spanning one's peripheral vision opened up the landscape.

Many people think Iowa is completely flat, but this is only a half-truth.  Iowa is home to a scenic and very unique geographic feature known as "The Loess Hills."    The Hills are a formation of wind deposited loess soil, an aeolian sediment formed by the acculmulation of wind-blown silt and lesser variable amounts of sand and clay, which are loosely cemented by calcium carbonate.

The Hills are a bluff line running alongside the Missouri River and the flood plain.  Here is a description from a brochure on the Hills.

The dominant features of this landscape are "peak and saddle" topography, "razor ridges" (narrow ridges, often less than ten feet wide, which fall off at near ninety-degree angles on either side for 60 feet or more), and "cat-step" terraces (caused by the constant slumping and vertical sheering of the loess soil). The soil has a characteristic yellow hue and is generally broken down into several units based on the period of deposition (Loveland, Pisgah, Peoria). Loess is known locally as "sugar clay" because it can be extremely hard when dry, but when wet, loses all cohesion. The Loess Hills of Iowa are remarkable for the depth of the drift layer, often more than ninety feet deep. The only comparable deposits of loess to such an extent are located in Shaanxi, China.[1]

The Loess Hills add a unique vibrant flavor to the western part of Iowa.  They fill up the prairie plains, touching sky to hill to river to wheat and corn stalks...Reading about the uniqueness of the geology only made the Hills all the more impressive.

Midway between Council Bluffs and Sioux City we exited off to explore the Lewis and Clark State Park.  The location is for day-use and has plenty of places to picnic alongside the banks of the Missouri.  A soft whistle of the wind buffered the heat.  The idyllic setting is very similar to the landscape, which Lewis and Clark would have experienced when they stopped at this location on August 10th 1804.

A replica of the keel boat the L&C Corps of Discovery used is on display by a modern dock.  Tourists can board the keel boat for an overall feel of how it was to travel on the Missouri with L&C.  Word to caution though...the Keel boat replica is much larger than the real deal and it really made me pause to think - how could so many men ride on the keel boat in 1804 without being brutally uncomfortable...my guess is they just roughed it out.  The river run up to the Continental Divide between Missouri to the Middle of Montana was excruciating at times as the Corps had to go up against the current, utilizing all their strength to paddle upriver.  The banks are calm at L&C State Park, but don't kid yourself - the Missouri is strong, mighty and wasn't for the faint of heart.  It makes their journey all the more amazing.

Next on the L&C themed day:  Sioux City, a metropolitan area situated in No.Western Iowa, just south of the South Dakota line.  The City has a long history with exploration and railroad expansion.  It is also the hometown of former Kansas Jayhawk standout: Kirk Hinrich - yes he's one of my fave players from KU...

On the Lewis and Clark trail, Sioux City was a sad memory for the Corps of Discovery.  On August 20th 1804,  Sergeant Floyd of the Corps died from what modern day scientists believed to have been appendicitis.  It is important to note that Floyd was the soul member of the party to die while on the expedition and what he died of was something that was incurable in his day.  Even if Floyd had been privy to the best doctors in Philadelphia in 1804 - he would have died.  Though tragic, it also shows how well-run and what a tight knit group of explorers - the Corps were.  For two years and many perilous times only one died - and he would have died whether on the journey or not.

My mom and I went to Sergeant Floyd's grave.  It was almost 205 years to the date of his death.  I said a silent prayer of respect for Floyd and his service for the Corps.  Floyd's Grave is almost in the exact location where the original L&C members buried him.  However a historical society was forced to move it from the original site in the 1850s due to water erosion.  They moved the body to a nearby bluff  - so high you won't find a better view this side of Iowa.  It overlooks the Missouri and the city built around him.  In the early 1900s, a obelisk style monument was erect atop the grave site.  It is a remarkable structure and well thought out.  I'd recommend paying your respects to Floyd.  A trip to this towering memorable and the vista surrounding it is a must stop on any tour of Sioux City or I-29.

After a stop at Floyd's grave we drove to the nearby Sioux City waterfront and historical center.  This is another MUST SEE destination in Iowa.  Both museums are free and you have excellent Missouri River Front access.  

Two museums stand about 100-200 yards apart.  The first was the Sergeant Floyd Visitor Center.  The VC is housed in a historic steamboat, which is now permanently docked on the banks of the Missouri.  The Steamboat gives a history of how the Missouri was used for business and travel in the early days of western expansion.  It is filled with exhibits on Sioux City's History, Sergeant Floyd, and tourist info on Iowa.  

Next door is an interactive museum the entire family can enjoy.  The Lewis and Clark Interpretative Center offers a hands way to learn about the Corps of Discovery, their timeline, and historical significance.  Illustrated panels, animatronics, and computer activities offer insightful information about the Corps - and the fates of each individual member.  A gorgeous statue of Lewis and Clark and Lewis's faithful dog Seaman stands guard in a welcoming garden area between the banks of the Missouri and the museum.

After two hours at the museum and VC, my mom and I headed north on I-29 towards the South Dakota line and Sioux Falls.  Once in Sioux Falls, about 86 miles outside of Sioux City, we stopped at McDonald's to split a dollar meal and a couple of sundaes. 

Sioux Falls by the wall is a big city as Mid-West cities go.  It has lots of shopping compared to other nearby towns and is known for its namesake falls, which are preserved in a downtown area park.

Over dinner, we discussed our upcoming itinerary and budgeted out our limited funds.  After much deliberation, we decided to continue on the highway for another few hours.  I know this sounds crazy, but considering the fact the Oldsmobile has been driving SO smoothly we're sort of paranoid about stopping too long with the fear it won't start up again... we merged, this time on I-90, westward bound.

Eastern South Dakota is filled with magnificent beauty, although many might see the land as flat and the prairies too vast and lifeless; they are wrong.  The prairie wind rolls the grasslands like a symphony and the crickets jumped from stalk to stalk and the bird's flying over the vast endless sky create a tapestry, a harmony.  

The sunset colored the sky in a shade of various hues ranging from blues to purples to fire reds and warm oranges and pinks.  The sun was blistery bright, but the landscape made it glow so to illuminate the land.  And as dusk settled I could only think about the wind and life often overlooked on the prairie floor, and who might dwell in the large well-built 100 year old farmhouses scattering the land....

An hour or so west of Sioux Falls we exited off at Mitchell, a small, but lively town with culture and corn.  The world famous Mitchell Corn Palace stands tall in the center of town, and although I'm not usually one to buy into gimmicks - I insisted we stop, albeit briefly.

The history of the Corn Palace is as such: It was originally constructed during "The Corn Belt Exposition" in 1892 to showcase the rich soil of South Dakota and to encourage land seekers to settle in the area.  The original edifice was a wooden castle structure on Mitchell's Main Street.  However it has since been rebuilt twice, in 1904-05 and in 1921.  It's architectural style is full of domes and minarets.  Every year fresh corn husks and new designs are mounted throughout the Corn Palace.  It is estimated it costs 130,000 to decorate annually. The interior is a gym and has a stage for concerts.  Exhibits on South Dakota, and corn fill the interior as well.  The Corn Palace is free and definitely worth a picture or two!

Mitchell has more than just The Corn Palace.  The town of roughly 14,000 also has several museums including: The Dakota Discovery Museum, which focuses on the settlement of the region from the 1600s Native Americans to 1939 and the Great Depression, and the Mitchell Prehistoric Indian Village.  The town is also home to Dakota Wes. University, the alma mater of Mitchell Resident, former Senator George McGovern.

Following our quick, but enjoyable pit stop through Mitchell, my mom and I gassed up the Oldsmobile and drove until the Chamberlin Rest Stop.  We were tired and running low on fuel...one more full day and roughly $18 left for gas and food.  With God's help, we'll make it work somehow...