Wind Cave National Park

*This is an archived journal entry from August 26th 2009. I'm dividing it up into two post as it was a crazy day with lots of activity from a trip to Wind Cave National Park, Hot Springs SD and an overheated car! I hope you enjoy the entries...

August 26th 2009:

Woke up this morning at 6:15 a.m. and loaded everything into our car. It looks to be a brilliant day with blue sky and relative humidity. Our plan is to drive south to Wind Cave National Park, another large cave in Southwestern South Dakota, and then onto the historic town of Hot Springs. Wind Cave is situated approximately thirty miles south of the Legion Lodge. The park boundaries of Custer and Wind Cave overlap, making for a gorgeous drive through a wide range of topography ranging from mountains to prairie.

As we headed toward Wind Cave we encountered an abundance wildlife including wild turkeys, mule deer, bison, and an entire herd of Pronghorn! I have noticed that the best time to encounter wildlife is early in the morning, close to dawn or late in the afternoon, close to dusk. As always be respectful of wildlife and admire them at a distance.

On the way to Wind Cave we stopped for breakfast at Blue Bell, a tourist area of Custer with lodging, food, and a gift shop. Blue Bell is situated at the base of Mount Coolidge, and straddles French Creek and a sea of Ponderosa Pine. It was built in the 1920s by a Bell Telephone executive, and named for Bell's company namesake - its 'Blue Bell.' The owner of Blue Bell deeded over the land and his ranch to Custer. Blue Bell is picturesque, and another great spot for families wanting an old-west experience. The campground and cabins are very nice and on-site activities such as ranger talks, hikes, horse-back riding and western chuck wagon ridges.

We were seated in a corner booth in Tatanka Dining Room. The Dining Room, which was recently remodeled in 2008, offers delectable and affordable breakfasts, lunches, and dinners for any palette. Specialties include burgers, steaks, salads, and trout. The dining room is perfect for families with plenty of comfortable seating and ambiance. The decor reminds me of an old west hunting lodge with hardwood floors and a stone fireplace. An adjoining lounge offers live music at night and an gorgeous oak bar for adults to indulge in a glass of wine and appetizers.

For breakfast my mom and I split a cowboy breakfast of steak and eggs, homemade hash browns, orange juice and coffee. It filled us up for an jam-packed day ahead. The service was upbeat and friendly.

After our scrumptious breakfast my mom I continued south to Wind Cave. The topography changed drastically from mountains to high grassland prairie. It took about twenty-minutes to exit Custer's boundaries and reach the entrance to Wind Cave. The area is quiet, except for the rustling of the wind, which is strong and ferocious at times. It whispers like a melody. The sun is harsh and the sky takes up one's entire peripheral vision...It's a tapestry of color, geology, and wildlife. Wildlife teems here with elk, bison, pronghorn, mountain lion, coyote, bobcats, foxes, and prairie dogs. The grasslands are filled with wildflowers and grasshoppers, so as lonely as the seemingly endless prairie may seem it is full with life.

Prairie dogs are abundant in the grasslands surrounding Wind Cave. Prairie Dog towns line the roads, and you really need to be careful not to hit them as they often cross the road. They need prairie dog crossing signs! Prairie dogs are the most amazing creatures, the way they interact and look after each other!

About seven minutes after entering the National Park we reached the cave entrance and Visitor Center. Wind Cave was discovered by the Bingham Brothers in 1881 after they heard a loud whistling noise from a small hole in ground, which subsequently knocked Jesse Bingham's hat off his head. It is now known that the tiny hole was the only natural entrance to Wind Cave. The wind whistling out of the hole begged curiosity so a few days later Jesse returned to show his friends. Oddly enough the wind switched directions and this time his hat was sucked into the cave. It is known today that the direction of the wind is related to the difference in atmospheric pressure between the cave and the surface.

The first person reported to have entered the cave was Charlie Crary in the fall of 1881. In 1890 the South Dakota Mining Company filed a claim on the cave and J.D. McDonald was hired to manage the mine. The McDonald family quickly realized there was no money to be made in mining at Wind Cave, however they could make a profit by giving cave tours and selling formations from the cave. They filed a homestead claim over the opening and worked on improving a man-made entrance and enlarging passageways for tours.

J.D.'s son, Alvin was intrigued with the cave and spent a majority of his time exploring its maze and mapping out its passageways. He kept a diary on his findings, which is still referenced today.

In the summer of 1891, an investor named John Stabler formed a partnership with the McDonald's to form the Wonderful Wind Cave Improvement Company. Cave passages were widened and wooden staircases were installed. A hotel was built near the cave entrance and a stage coach provided rides to the cave. In 1893, Alvin died of typhoid fever and a feud ensued between the the McDonalds and the Stablers.

In December 1899, the Department of the Interior decided that since no mining nor proper homesteading had taken place, neither party had any legal claim to the cave. In 1901, the land around the cave was withdrawn from homesteading.

Wind Cave National Park was established in 1903 by President Theodore Roosevelt, making it the seventh oldest National Park in the world and the first cave to be designated a National Park. Wind Cave lies underneath a vast prairie with the mountains of the Black Hills cradling its core. Wind Cave is very unique in the fact it has a special kind of cave formations called 'boxwork' and 'frostwork.' Approximately 95% of the world's boxwork formations are found in Wind Cave.

'Box Work': Boxwork is commonly composed of thin blades of the mineral calcite that project from cave walls or ceilings that intersect one another at various angles, forming a box-like or honeycomb pattern. The boxwork fins once filled cracks in the rock before the host cave formed. As the walls of the cave began to dissolve away, the more resistant vein and crack fillings did not, or at least dissolved at a slower rate than the surrounding rock, leaving the calcite fins projecting from the cave surfaces.

'Frost Work': is a type of speleothem (cave formation) composed of acicular ("needle-like") growths almost always composed of aragonite (a polymorph of calcite) or calcite replaced by aragonite [1]. It is a variety of anthodite. In some caves frostwork may grow on top of cave popcorn or boxwork.

It is a three-dimensional maze cave, recognized for having the most passage volume per square mile compared to any cave system in the world. It is the second longest cave system in the world with 119.58 of charted passageways, and known length of 151.04 miles (more miles discovered each year). Interesting to note that an average of four new miles of cave is discovered each year. Above ground, the park includes the largest remaining natural mixed-grass prairie in the United States.

The Visitor Center offers a variety of exhibits regarding the cave itself, and its unusual formations. It is also where you sign up for a variety of cave tours. All caves tours cost at least $7 and no discount for park pass owners. Plan accordingly and call ahead to reserve tickets, especially if you have a large family. The fee is worth it however for the magnificent formations.

I recommend taking your time viewing the V.C. history and wildlife exhibits. A twenty-minute orientation film is also a good introduction to the Cave and Park land covering it.

Cave Tours: There are five cave tours varying in intensity, features and duration. I recommend the Garden of Eden tour, which is the easiest to maneuver with only 150 steps and gives a great introduction the cave. It lasts just over an hour. Another good option is the Natural Cave tour with 300 steps and at 1 1/4 minutes offers views of boxwork, popcorn and frostwork.

Hiking: There are three hiking trails within the Park boundary. This is a great way to get off the beaten path, and immerse yourself in the flora and fauna of the prairie. I recommend bringing lots of water for any prairie hike and sunscreen as the sun is strong, even if the temperature is not that extreme.

We finished up at Wind Cave around eleven. We decided to head onto Hot Springs, although we were tempted to detour on a prairie hike...for Part II of this entry look for a subsequent post.

Information on Wind Cave N.P.

*Frostwork is shown in photo above.

Archived Entry from August 23rd 2009

We woke up this morning at nine a.m. to a gorgeous day in Custer State Park.  The campground was bustling as fellow campers prepared their breakfast.  Since it's a Sunday, many of the campers are leaving today and were packing up their supplies and taking down their tents.  After going to the nearby Vault toilet to change into a fresh set of clothes we prepared a breakfast of raisins, cereal and diet coke.  Not the most nutritious meal in the world, but it filled the palette.

After breakfast, we relaxed around the campsite for the next hour, discussing our trip and reviewing the Tatanka, Custer State Park's well-written visitor's guide.  Tatanka is Lakota for Bison, the symbol of Custer State Park.    In its 71,000 acres, Custer offers a variety of outdoor and family activities including hikes, boating, swimming and wildlife viewing.  During our stay we hope to experience as much of the park as possible.

At ten-thirty we decided to drive over to Legion Lake, which is approximately a five minute drive around twisty curvy roads, rock walls and thick pine forests.  Legion Lake Lodge dates back to 1913 when Custer State Park was a game preserve in the Custer State Forest.  This location was leased at the time by the local American Legion post, giving the lodge it's time.  The lodge is comprised of stone walls and Ponderosa Pine.  

Legion Lake is a tranquil man-made lake, from the nearby Galena Creek.  In my opinion, Legion offers the best economy lodging for families at Custer.  Families can choose between cabin rentals at affordable rates or a convenient campground.  A playground, beach area and area hikes makes this the perfect spot for kids and adults alike.

After checking my email and grabbing a cup of coffee in the Legion Lake Dining room, my mom and I headed west on Highway 16 into the town of Custer.

Downtown Custer is charming, with streets lined with restaurants, shops and coffeehouses.  Many of the buildings are original to the town and date back to the 1880s.  I suggest checking out the architecture of the 1881 Courthouse, which is open for tours on Custer's history and The Bank: one of the oldest buildings in Custer, it was built as a bank in 1881, eight years before SD became a state. Today it is a Steak and Ribs joint by night and coffeehouse by day.

As we strolled down Main Street Custer, my mom and I started to get hungry. I  guess a breakfast of trail mix and diet coke doesn't hold well :)  We decided to stop for a bite to eat at The Elk Lodge,  one of the many delicious dining options downtown.

The decor was laid back western with Old-West photos and park ambiance.  It is a family friendly establishment with an Americana menu.  For lunch I opted for a burger and their famous homemade BBQ chips and my mom settled on a chicken sandwich.  The food was delicious and the server was friendly.  I would definitely recommend this restaurant to any visitors to Custer.

After lunch we stopped by Pamida, a Wal-Mart like discount chain geared toward smaller towns.  We purchased a cooler, batteries, an extra storage bin and cough drops (yes I'm battling a nagging cold and cough drops are my salvation).   We also loaded up on some more non perishable items at the Dakota Mart, and Custer Market.  The latter offers fresh produce and Gluten Free items ( My mom and I both have Celiac Disease, which mean we can't eat gluten, which is found in wheat products).

Since the weather was so perfect at eighty degrees and little humidity,  we decided to stop by Stockade Lake on the way back to CL for 1.5 mile loop.  Stockade Lake is the largest lake in Custer State Park.  It is a perfect spot for boaters, swimmers, hikers, and picnickers.  After turning into the southeast entrance for Stockade Lake we drove several hundred feet before pulling into the turnout beside the trail head.  We then grabbed our Nalgene water bottles and hit the trail.

The Stockade Lake Trail is a 1.5 loop, which ascends one of the mountain hills surrounding the lake before looping back down.  The path offers a variety of striking views of the lake below, and immersion into the natural forestry of the park.  From the ridge top you can also catch views of Harney Peak in the distance, which is the tallest peak east of the North American Rockies and west of Europe!  

While on the hike we met a friendly retiree from Colorado who was vacationing in the area with her husband.  We spoke for about ten minutes before she headed back down the ridge and we continued our ascension.  The altitude is stifling at first, leaving one gasping for air.  The air is thin here and even for the most athletic takes some getting used to.  Still we pressed on, taking our time as the trail weaved through the Ponderosa Pine Forest.  

It took us an hour and a half to complete this hike.  Despite the short distance, this is a  Moderate to Strenuous hike as you do have to climb some and deal with a lot of rock on the trail, and you do have to deal with a decent altitude change.  I recommend this hike, however if you have trouble breathing you might want to choose one of many other Custer hikes, which I will no doubt be journaling on later.

We returned to our car just before four o'clock, and headed back to our campsite.  We made a quick stop at Legion on the way "home" to pick up a bag of ice for the cooler. Shortly after retuning to our campsite the Park Personnel came by to collect the $16.00 camp fee.  

As dusk settled into night we munched on chips and salsa and wine.  Clouds began to roll in around nine-thirty, and just after bed it began to rain.  We had to rush outside to cover up all of our food and put my guitar into the car.  The wind was ferocious as it howled in and lightning struck through the trees.  After thirty minutes the tempest faded back to clear skies and I fell into sleep, ready for another full day tomorrow.

Custer State Park: Day One

This is the final segment of my Archived entry for August the 22nd 2009.  

My mom and I departed Crazy Horse just before five.  The sun was still shining bright, amidst a cloudless sky.  From Crazy Horse we headed south about ten minutes before reaching the charming town of Custer, a gateway town to Custer State Park.  The town of Custer is filled with quality restaurants, shops and museums.  Several chain hotels are also in the area for those who don't wish to stay right in the park.  I highly recommend lodging at Custer or Custer S.P. for the whole of your Black Hills stay as the lodging is quality and affordable.  Custer and Custer SP are convenient to all area attractions including Mt. Rushmore, Wind Cave, Hot Springs, Jewel Cave and a day trip to the Badlands.

The town has a population of approximately 1800 people.  It was founded in 1875 after Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer's Calvary found trace amounts of gold in the region in 1874 (gold was never abundant in the region however and mining did not yield much profit except in the Deadwood area, north by some fifty miles).

Right outside of town you'll find the entrance to Custer State Park, one of the oldest and best State Parks in America!  A $12 admission fee (good for the week) will gain access to a wide variety of outdoor activities.  It encompasses over 71,000 acres and is filled with wildlife, lakes, mountains history and historical hotels and lodges and campgrounds fit for any budget.  Custer was begun in 1919 and has played hosts to Presidents and Dignitaries.  

It's use of forestry and parkland management is the best in the National and State Park System!  Frankly I'd never heard much of Custer S.P. prior to this trip, but during my three week stay in it's vicinity I fell in love with the land, and the Park's Tourism operations.  Custer is a must vacation for any family!

That being said we came into the park not sure what to expect.  We couldn't afford another night in a motel and kind of splurged on our tourism at Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse (worth the money).  Camping seemed a viable option, however we weren't sure we'd be able to find a camping spot so late in the day.  Luckily Center Lake Campground had lots of spaces available.  So my mom and I drove the Oldsmobile ten or so miles through immaculate greenery, and mountain valleys.  Along the way we passed two lakes: Stockade Lake and Legion Lake.  The latter is the site of a campground and cabin rentals.  Legion also has a store and excellent restaurant.

Center Lake is a first come first serve (no reservations) campground.  It is very large and very peaceful.  We found a spot in the upper loop perfect for setting up camp.  I will admit we are not the most prepared campers.  We have no tent and very little in terms of cooking supplies.  Still our learning curve is quick and our fortitude great.

We picked up conversations with a neighboring camping couple from Texas who gave us the scoop on where the showers were, places to eat and grocery shop and fun things to do in the area.  They also informed us how to pay for the campsite.  

My mom and I unloaded a few items in an effort to reserve our campsite before returning to Custer to purchase some food supplies at the in-town grocery store: The Dakota Mart.  The store isn't super large, but offers a decent selection of food (although they have no deli meat), wine (very key in camping :) and camping supplies such as flashlights and wood for the fire.  

My mom loaded up on food such as chips and salsa, marshmellows, chocolate, juice, cereal, milk ice, etc...we really can't store refrigerated food well, so it looks like we'll do our best to ice down the food and make trips into town when we need to.

After shopping, we headed back into the park.  Hungry for a sit down meal, my mom and I opted to split a steak at The Legion Lake Lodge.  For dessert we indulged in Land O'Lakes Ice Cream - seriously some of the best ice-cream I've EVER had!  

After dinner my mom and I headed back to our campsite and relaxed a bit before night fall.  It starts getting dark around nine and is pitch black by ten.  It is so peaceful, to go to sleep with millions of stars visible overhead and the occasional sound of the wind.  

Here are a few Custer SP links:

Custer - The Town

Custer State Park

Future Archived entries regarding Custer will focus on our adventures in the area and also profile activities and lodging options within the vicinity!

"Crazy Horse": A story in stone

  "My lands are where my dead lie buried..." Crazy Horse, Lakota Warrior 

Seventeen miles south of Mt. Rushmore, stands another massive sculpture in stone, that of famed Lakota warrior Crazy Horse.  He was born in circa 1840 into the Ogala Lakota Tribe as Tȟašúŋke Witkó (in Standard Lakota Orthography), which literally translates to "His-Horse-is-Crazy."  During his life he rose to the ranks of a respected war leader and led the fight against the U.S. Calvary and Custer at The Battle of Little Bighorn in 1876.  He was a strong proponent of protecting the Lakota way of life and their traditions.  He was eventually killed by a stab wound on Sept. 5th 1877.  He was buried in the Wounded Knee SD vicinity (his burial location is unknown per his families request)

Crazy Horse Memorial  was commissioned by Ogala Lakota Chief Standing Bear in 1948.  The goal of Standing Bear in commissioning the project was to pay tribute to the Lakota nation who had long lived in the South Dakota Black Hills and consider South Dakota sacred ground.  Though several tribal members expressed concern over the project and whether it would be considered a tribute or an insult to the principles of Crazy Horse.  Most of this criticism has lessened over the years as the monument has become a testament to the Lakota and Plains Indians and educated Americans of all creeds of the importance of early nations to the United States as a nation.

 The Lakota enlisted the assistance of talented sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to design the monument.  Korczak, a noted New England sculptor came to the Black Hills in 1939 to work on Mount Rushmore as an apprentice of Gutzon Borglum.  After serving in WWII, Korczak returned to the Black Hills to work on Crazy Horse in late 1947.

After surveying the land it was decided that Thunderhead Mountain would be the perfect spot for the project as the rock would be good for sculpture/blasting and the site is considered sacred to the Lakota.  Crazy Horse is an ongoing project sixty years in the making.  Crazy Horse is far from completion, but the Ziolkowski family continues to work towards finishing up Korczak's design.  When completed it will be the largest monument in the world.

The sculpture's final dimensions are planned to be 641 feet (195 m) wide and 563 feet (172 m) high. The head of Crazy Horse will be 87 feet (27 m) high; by comparison, the heads of the four U.S. Presidents at Mount Rushmore are each 60 feet (18 m) high.

My mom and I entered the memorial site at a quarter to three.  The cost of admission is twenty dollars per car.  Every dollar goes toward the ongoing completion of Crazy Horse and Native American outreach.  Crazy Horse Memorial consists of an entire campus of attractions educating visitors about the mountain carved in stone, Korczak as an artist/sculptor and Native American history. 

We started off our tour in the 40,000 square foot Welcome Center.  Two theaters offer a twenty-minute introductory video entitled "Dynamite & Dreams," which gives a comprehensive history and attraction information.  I recommend watching the video before pursuing other aspects of the tour.

The Welcome Center also features exhibits and a time line regarding the history of The Crazy Horse Monument and future plans for completion.

Also in the Visitor Complex is The Indian Museum of North America, which pays homage to all Americans of Native American ancestry - not just the Lakota who commissioned the work.  This area showcases over 100 Edward Curtis portraiits of American Indians and photographs of frontier life.  An adjoining room featuring Native American artisans and artists is a must see and an excellent way to learn about the history of Native Americans on the plains and their rich culture.

Hungry?  We stopped by the Laughing Water Restaurant and Snack Shop for a Diet Coke and bag of homemade Kettle Korn.  This is a perfect spot for hungry tourists to relax and indulge in a tasty meal.  I recommend sitting on an outside deck attached to the restaurant.  This deck offers remarkable views of Crazy Horse in the distance and the surround Black Hills area!

Our last stop on the tour was a stop by Korczak's original log home and adjoining studio.  The log studio home was built by Korczak i 1947-48 and is filled with antiques and works of fine art. Although known mostly as a mountain sculptor, prior to moving to South Dakota, Korczak won many awards in New York for painting and his smaller sculpture work.  Plaster copies and original works from his artistic career are on display, giving visitors and instead look into the creative mind of Korczak.

The log home is where Korczak lived with his beloved wife Ruth and their many children until he died in 1984.  Ruth still lives on site and many of there children continue to be active in running the Crazy Horse Memorial and continued sculpture process.  100% of the money raised from admission, donations and gift shop sales goes directly to completion of Crazy Horse and Native American Educational Scholarships.  Unlike Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse is a privately owned non-profit agency/attraction.  This is one reason why the completion process has taken so long.  

However with the help of visitors and donations by corporations, The Crazy Horse dream is being realized.  In 1998, Crazy Horse's head was completed and work has begun on his arms and the horse he will be seen riding on.  Eventually the Ziolkowski family hopes to have a Native American University and Medical Center on site as well.  I look forward to coming back to this attraction in the coming years and monitoring the process of sculpting this exquisite landmark!  A must see for tourists to The Black Hills region.

In my next archived entry I will begin to discuss what became a three week stay in Custer State Park, just south of Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse.

Want to learn more?  Check out the following link!

Crazy Horse Memorial 

Mount Rushmore: A President's View

The wide expanse of Great Plain prairie collides with the rolling Black Hills of South Dakota, just south of Rapid City. The grasslands abruptly move into twisty curvy roads cradled by stone mountains and thick forests. Rivers wind along the canyon and mountain valley floor, offering a rich landscape of immense beauty, which captivates the American spirit of East meets Mountain West.

It's evident how the area is known as "The Black Hills" as when you approach from the high  grasslands from the east - the mountains rise like pillars of black well defined rock having an altitude from 4,000 to over 7,000 feet out of the plains is impressive and begs one to keep driving into the hills.

I think so many people think of the Black Hills of Mount Rushmore, but don't realize how much more there is to the region in the next several weeks I will be recounting my explorations in the region and Custer State Park - one of the oldest and BEST State or National Parks in America. I will be posting on how Southwestern South Dakota is one of the TOP FIVE family vacations bar none!

Today we pick up from where my last entry left off. After leaving Wall SD we headed west on I-90 until we reached Rapid City and then exited off the Interstate before going south to Keystone on Highway 16A - one of the most scenic and older cross county highways in America (It leads all the way to Yellowstone in WY, which I'll discuss later on). Almost instantly the topography changed from plains to a gorgeous green canyon of evergreen and stone. The topography reminds me of a combination of the Blue Ridge Mountains meets the Rocky Mountains.  

Our Oldsmobile started feeling the altitude changes as we gained elevation and subsequently went down into the canyon. So far so good with the Oldsmobile - although I have found changing into a lower gear helps in the mountains.

As much as my mom and I love to camp after four nights sleepy in our car and no real shower - we were ready for the benefits of modern civilization and a hotel room. In hindsight we probably should have stayed outside the main tourist drag as it is a bit more expensive and we only have $772 for three weeks, but I think if you are going to splurge on a hotel room it was worth it to stay right near Mt. Rushmore in it's Gateway town of Keystone.

Keystone is a campy town with a lot of personality. It reminds you of a National Park/Family tourist destination meets old west frontier town. The main drag is lined with discount souvenir shops and a few decent restaurants. I think it's a fun place to visit, but I don't think more than a day is needed in Keystone and would recommend exploring other area locations such as Custer or Hill City.

Big warning about Keystone they have weird ATM'S and many restaurants don't take major credit cards - we have a Visa and none of the ATM's (all owned by a local bank) would allow us to withdraw money and several restaurants wouldn't accept our card, although it's a major card. Be warned that just because they say they take VISA they might not accept all Visa cards or Bankcards - so get cash in Rapid City or via the ATM at Mt. Rushmore. We were in a real lurch when the restaurant couldn't read our Visa...

We checked into The President's View Resort, which is in a prime location as it's seats atop a cliff and offers views of the surrounding areas. The room cost $89 per night and included a nice view and nice pool. It is also within walking distance of downtown Keystone.

After bumming around historic Keystone and eating a Mexican dinner we enjoyed relaxing in the room and taking a dip in the the pool. I was so happy to have a bed and shower! We also used the coin laundry to clean our clothes. Overall it was a very relaxing experience and I would highly recommend the hotel.

August 22nd (Part 1 of 2 Part entry)

On August 22nd we woke up around eight and finished our laundry and packed up our car. I'm afraid we brought too much stuff! It was so hard to know what not to bring and what to bring - oh well - the saga of packing and unpacking the car adds a tedious excitement to our day.

My mom and I checked out of our hotel room by eleven and immediately headed to Mt. Rushmore National Monument. Mount Rushmore is become an icon blasted and etched in stone, which has come to be synonymous with American  ideals.  The four faces on the mountainside include four great Presidents spanning from various important segments of American history:

 - George Washington, his head juts out majestically on the left side of the mountainside - a symbol of the beginning of American ideals - and our nation's beginnings.

- Thomas Jefferson: The writer of the Declaration of Independence and America's third President.  Thomas Jefferson like Thomas Jefferson was one of the founding fathers and expressed the ideals of American democracy in the Declaration and also was instrumental in expanding our nation with the purchase of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, which doubled the size of our nation.  

-Abraham Lincoln: A man who led our nation through one of its most difficult trials during the Civil War and fought to keep the U.S. unified, something he was in turn assassinated for.  

- Theodore Roosevelt: At the time of Mt. Rushmore's commissioning many were unsure of Roosevelt's worthiness.  However today it is obvious Teddy deserves his spot in stone.  He helped set aside many of our national parks and embrace quality social change.  It is become of Roosevelt that many of our nation's parks were protected such as The Grand Canyon, Devils Tower/Bear Lodge, among others.  Fun fact President Roosevelt is the first official to enact the mechanical royalty law for songwriters, in which they would be paid  2 cents for each song sold.  The model still is valid today and despite inflation the rate hasn't gone up much.  It is roughly 11 cents today.

The Beginnings of the Rushmore Dream:

The Black Hills are filled with large stone pillars, spires and rock expanses - natural monuments of stone.  The spires and rock are unique and a part of South Dakota's Hill Country.  The idea for Mt. Rushmore dates back to 1923 when a South Dakota State Historian named Doane Robinson got the idea of carving stone sculptures into the Black Hills stone as a way to lure tourists into the region.  Robinson was sure that once Americans from other areas experienced the majesty of the Black Hills they would be hooked for life - and frankly I tend to agree.

Robinson's original idea was to have carvings/monuments of Western heroes such as Bill Cody or Chief Red Cloud.  He enlisted the assistance of Gutzon Borglum, a sculptor who had been working on Stone Mountain in Georgia, a similar concept to Mt. Rushmore only that it features Confederate war heroes, such as Robert E. Lee.  

Originally Robinson and Borglum planned to carve figures into the granite pillars known as the Needles.  However the Needles are subject to heavy erosion and too thin to support sculpting after looking over nearly every rock, spire and natural stone mountain in the region, Borglum picked Mt. Rushmore.  The Mountain was originally named The Six Grandfathers by the Lakota Sioux, but was renamed after N.Y. lawyer  Charles Rushmore in 1885, as he was in business in the Black Hills region.  Therefore Mt. Rushmore is not named in reference to the monument, but from it's original title before the idea of the presidential monument began.

Borglum chose Mount Rushmore, a grander location, partly because it faced southeast and enjoyed maximum exposure to the sun. Borglum said upon seeing Mount Rushmore, "America will march along that skyline."  The rock was also less prone to erosion, only losing one inch of rock every 10,000 years.  However although natural elements continue to force year-round maintenance work o the Mountain to ensure Borglum's inception is not altered by forces of time.

Construction of Mount Rushmore:

Construction of this iconic American monument lasted from October of 1927 to October 1941.  It was commissioned by Pres. Calvin Coolidge in 1927 and given additional funds in 1929.  Coolidge was persuaded by Peter Norbeck, a South Dakota Senator and friend of the President's to support the project.  I will have an entire entry on Norbeck later as he was one of the truly great Americans and was instrumental in preservation of the Black Hills region and also promoting it's tourism industry.  He helped found Custer State Park and also continued to court succeeding Presidents after Coolidge to continue to promote Mt. Rushmore.

In 1933, Mt. Rushmore was placed under the jurisdiction of the National Parks Service.  
 By July 4, 1934, Washington's face had been completed and was dedicated. The face of Thomas Jefferson was dedicated in 1936, and the face of Abraham Lincoln was dedicated on September 17, 1937. In 1937, a bill was introduced in Congress to add the head of civil-rights leader Susan B. Anthony, but a rider was passed on an appropriations bill requiring that federal funds be used to finish only those heads that had already been started at that time.[12] In 1939, the face of Theodore Roosevelt was dedicated.

The project to build Mt. Rushmore cost less than $1,000,000 and provided jobs in the region.  

From Keystone we headed down Highway 244, a scenic road leading up to the entrance of Mt. Rushmore.  The views afforded along the way were stupendous as vistas of the well defined peaks and valleys of The Black Hills were visible in every direction.  Before hitting a sharp curve, which leads to the entrance, a silhouette of Washington's head, framed by the thick forest begs one to pull out at the adjoining roadside turnout.  It is one of the best views in the entire area!

While taking pictures at the turnout we ran into a nice couple from Atlanta Georgia who were visiting their friend who was living in N.D.  We talked about one another's trips and they gave us some tips about our impending journey to Custer State Park. 

The weather today is PERFECT, a cloudless sky with temps in the mid-eighties with no humidity.  As we pulled into Mt. Rushmore the clock in the dashboard read eleven.  

After parking the Oldsmobile we headed up to the main Visitor's area and food court.  Upon entry a long boulevard lined by each state's flag  leads to a visitor's center/food court on the right and gift shop on the left.   The four Presidential heads are fully visible as you walk up the path and continue to become more pronounced as you continue walking.  An amphitheatre graded below the main viewing area offers a better look at the monument and is where a variety of ranger talks and the light show is held every night in the summer!

We were famished so my mom and I started out with lunch.  I opted for a cheeseburger and fries while my mom settled on chicken in broccoli (more healthy than me today).  For dessert we enjoyed raspberry yogurt and mint chocolate chip ice cream.  

After lunch we toured the informative museum, which offers a comprehensive history of the region, Mt. Rushmore, Gutzon Borglum, and a Mt. Rushmore time line.  Definitely try to spend at least forty-five minutes in the museum -it's worth it.  Also check out the interesting twenty minute film about the monument, which is narrated by Tom Brokaw.

Upon completion of our museum tour my mom and I decided to embark on the Presidential Trail, which winds through a scenic forest to offer stunning and intimate views of Mt. Rushmore.  This is a must-do trail if you have the time!  Chipmunks abound to the point they have trailside signs saying "Don't Feed the Chipmunks."  Other wildlife such as Mountain Goats many be visible from afar if you look atop the craggy peaks.  Along the trail you can visit Gutzon Borglum's personal sculpting studio and learn about the process of creating this grand monument.

The Sculptor's Studio—a display of unique plaster models and tools related to the sculpting—was built in 1939 under the direction of Borglum.  Unfortunately Borglum died from an embolism in March 1941. His son, Lincoln Borglum, continued the project. Originally, it was planned that the figures would be carved from head to waist, but insufficient funding forced the carving to end.  Borglum had also planned a massive panel in the shape of the Louisiana Purchase commemorating in eight-foot-tall gilded letters the Declaration of Independence, U.S. Constitution, Louisiana Purchase, and seven other territorial acquisitions from Alaska to Texas to the Panama Canal Zone.

It is interesting to note that within the monumental heads, there is in fact A Hall of Records.  This was done as Borglum thought it was frustrating that monuments from the ancient world did not leave an explanation as to why they were built.  If they did - it was weathered away or forgotten.  He wanted to ensure that future generations would always have a record of why the sculpture was built, the key tenets of American democracy and a history of our country.

A model at the site depicting Mount Rushmore's intended final design. Insufficient funding forced the carving to end in October 1941.  That's fourteen years!  The process of molding the rock to the clear and precise figures we see today took Borglum and 400 dedicated workers who blasted and chiseled the rock in order to form the faces.  Interesting to note despite the dangers of the work not one person died in the construction of Mt. Rushmore (only injuries on record)

We finished up our tour of Mt. Rushmore around two.  My mom and I briefly debated whether or not we should head onto Custer State Park or go ahead and visit Crazy Horse first, another area monument crafted out of stone and hard work.  Both Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse compliment each other and are Must-See attractions in the region.  

We ended up deciding to go onto Crazy Horse as it's on the way to Custer S.P.  I will discuss this in my next entry as like Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Monument has a lot of history which I want to take the time to focus in on.

August 20th 2009: Archived Entry

Archived Journal Entry for American Nomad experiment:

August 20th 2009:

The air was chilly if not cold after the sun went down on Wednesday night. The sky was cluttered with stars until clouds rolled in around midnight and lifted by the time we woke up at eight a.m. South Dakota only allows a person to spend two to four hours at a rest area - even trucks. Unfortunately with only $15 for gas and a few dollars in change for food we had to take a gamble and spend the night at the rest area. The Chamberlain rest stop was peaceful and fairly modern.

The Chamberlain Rest Area features a nice Visitor's Center to the Mid-State region, also known as the gateway to the west and the Black Hills, which are westbound by several hours. The area, though flat is coupled with colorful rock amidst the prairie and high buttes. The VC is also houses a museum about Lewis and Clark and their time in the region. Here is an excerpt regarding the Corps of Discovery in SD:

1. Sept. 16, 1804

The expedition sets up camp to dry their provisions following three days of rain. Near their camp, the explorers find great quantities of plums and abundant wildlife. Lewis writes: "vast herds of Buffaloe deer Elk and Anitlopes were seen feeding in every direction as far as the eye of the observer could reach." Interpretive sign located at I-90 Information Center of Chamberlain.

The town of Chamberlain is located roughly two hours east of Wall South Dakota and the Badlands National Park. It's population sits roughly around 2200 and is situated on the banks of the Missouri River. The River is magnificent and broad at Chamberlain, it is also at this juncture that the Missouri begins to wind northward towards North Dakota, and we will fall temporarily off the L&C Trail.

In addition to the L&C Center, Chamberlain SD is home to the South Dakota Hall of Fame and very interesting Alta-Lakota Museum and Cultural Center. When traversing I-90 through Chamberlain you'll find excellent views of the topography as you cross over the historical Chamberlain Oacoma Bridge.

We hit the road at eight a.m. with little gas in our tank. As previously stated we are running low on gas and have very limited funds until tomorrow. Our plan is to drive to the Badlands N.P. and camp in the park and spend the day hiking. Despite little food and gas, I can't complain. The sky is a crystal blue expanse with limited clouds and open prairie runs on either side of the highway. It's in scenery like this, though to some plain - I see God's magnificent hand.

Needing gas ASAP we exited nineteen miles west of Chamberlain in Reliance. I like that name - I'm relying on God and my faith on this journey as an American Nomad - I'm having to rely on him and trust that he will protect and provide me and my mom with shelter, food, and comfort no matter how uncertain or twisty the road may become.

I used our remaining cash (we still have a small amount on our credit card - $17) to fill up the tank 3/4th of the way full. I do not want to get stranded without gas - Triple A or not - that is a fate I'd rather not meet. I love the Oldsmobile, but it is a gas guzzler - 17 - 19 mph and costly when you are on the highway...at least it's running though...

After leaving Reliance it was approximately 90 more miles to the Mountain Time Zone (making time move back an hour), and 130 miles to the east entrance of the Badlands National Park.

We ran out of gas right as we pulled off the exit for the Badlands N.P. I charged $10 for gas on the card, leaving us $7 for food. Honestly that $10 didn't give us but a quarter of a tank, but we would make it work.

The Badlands is a GREAT park to visit, especially with the family. It's one of the most unique geological spots in the world and has a unique beauty as sandstone cliffs carved by years of erosion forms a radiant beauty and habitat for wildlife. The Badlands was formed as deposits from the erosion of the Badlands to the west deposited in the region, and then carved by a period in which an ancient sea settled over the region, and wind and storms and heat created this landscape - a landscape that's ever changing.

The region derived the name "Badlands" from early French Fur Trappers who thought the place looked lifeless and water was scarce, early homesteaders also felt the harshness of the land as the prairie ground is not conducive for agriculture (due to heat, deposits, and other natural forces) and it was a hard place to live. Part of this problem with early homesteaders is they didn't utilize the land for what it was and tried to maintain farming practices from back east, instead of figuring out how the land could be used the way it was...The grasshoppers and dustbowl caused problems with farming as well (and yes grasshoppers are EVERYWHERE in the park!)

The Lakota thought of the Badlands as Goodlands although they did refer it to land bad or mako sica. They learned how to use the season and buffalo and adapt to the plains way of life. The Lakota history in the area is inspiring and tragic as Wounded Knee occurred on the Park property.

The Badlands formations come out of the tall green praire grass, transitioning into canyons of sandstone. The features vary in color, height, and at times resemble minarets, castles, mounds and other features. Stratified layers in the fossilized sand stone tell the history of this place. Interestly enough the sandstone formations aren't that old geologically and might only last another few hundred years...as climate and extremities here constantly shape the landscape. However the sediment is old, though recently exposed.

Early on the Badlands became a marquee destination for fossil science. The fossils were collected and sent back east to cities such as Philadelphia and New York and helped push forward the emerging science of palentology. Specimens of many extinct species related to modern day animals such as horses, dogs, and alligators roamed the region.

The Badlands is home to many fossils, however out of all the fossils and multiple discoveries of new animal life, which once lived in the area - NO DINOSAURS - why? Well it's common sense really. The fact is that this area used to be a shallow and ancient sea and therefore - Dinosaurs, except ancient sea specimens would inhabit the area in population - the other animals found were those who lived near water and in a highly tropical environment. Dinosaurs did inhabit areas of N.D. and many specimens have been found in similar formations in the Badlands of Montana (yes Badland formations occur other places, but none are quite as unique as those in BNP).

The park isn't super big, but it's worth taking the time to explore. Bring plenty of water as the weather is extreme. Also wear a windbreaker - as it's very windy and sunscreen to protect from the harsh sun. From time to time it does rain so a rain poncho/jacket is useful to keep in the car or backpack!

There are several ways to enter the park. Costs for entry is $10 -$20 per car, but I recommend the National Parks pass for an annual fee of $80 - it's worth the money as you get into all NPS sites for free and help support our park system (which is poorly funded).

From the East you have Interior and the Northern entrances. We entered via Northern and proceeded through the colorful badland canyons to the Ben Reifel Visitor's Center and historic Cedar Pass Lodge. The VC is much nicer than when I first visited the park five years ago in 2004. It has top notch exhibits - great for the entire family. It's also a welcome spot to take a break from the Summer heat. The Rangers are helpful and can offer lots of advice on hiking and drive tour routes. The exhibits and video on the park are a must view for any visitor.

With are $7 left on the card we really couldn't afford a meal at the Lodge and needed to keep a few dollars left on the card in case we needed more gas before our money came. We opted for a lunch of Reeses Pieces (hey Peanut Butter is protein right?) and filled up our Nalgene bottles with water.

For the next several hours we toured the various turnouts and hiked up several small boardwalk paths including the Fossil Trail Exhibit (great for kids and adults), The White River Overlook, the Yellow Mounds Overlook, Pinnacles Overlook and many more Panoramic spots

After touring the main loop road and turnouts we decided to head on to the Sage Creek Campground, which is located off a gravel road - a little bumpy for smaller cars, but a great way to really experience off the beaten path attractions including wildlife viewing of Prairie Dogs, Buffalo, etc....

We briefly stopped at Robert's Prairie Dog Town. Prairie Dogs are amazing creatures who are sadly treated by ranchers, I'll go into more detail about this issue at another time. The prairie dog is a keystone species for the nearly extinct Black-Footed Ferret in the Badlands, and other animals in the region as they use their burrows for protection and Bison prefer land where the PD's have been because their burrow helps bring up the nutrious portion of the grass stalk. The Black Footed Ferret was thought to be extinct until a Wyoming resident uncovered some pups, they eventually began to reintroduce the BFF into the wild. The reintroduction in the park has been a success due to the presence of the Prairie Dog. The ferret is rarely seen, but is in the landscape - coming out at night and leaving it's mark on the landscape.

The BFF feeds only on PD's - so when ranchers shoot Prairie Dogs it has an adverse affect on the entire prairie environment and for the record - any arguments ranchers have for killing/poisoning prairie dogs is inaccurate and unwarranted - I'll discuss this later.

En route to the Sage Creek Campground we saw several bison. Bison are the largest land mammals in North America. I'll discuss them once we get to the Custer State Park and YNP logs.

The campground is really in the Middle of nowhere - but is also one of the coolest spots to camp. A prairie dog town is right next door, along with high bluffs and wide plains. The wind was ferocious at best, nearly blowing me down like a pixie stick and it blew it's windsong. It was hard to think about anything, standing on our campsite except negating the power of the wind. It entered my ears and my lungs. We quickly realized setting up a picnic area with our books and my notebook was next to impossible. Instead we chose to walk against the wind, visiting the Prairie Dog town and walking up a ridge. We also saw a lone Bison guarding the gates to the campground.

I honestly wanted to stay awake and look at the wide expanse of stars fill the sky as the sun faded into night, but I was exhausted. The travel and stress of the move had worn me thin. With the wind whistling like a lullaby, I fell asleep at seven and didn't wake up until daybreak...

Links:

http://www.chamberlainsd.org/

http://www.sdgfp.info/Parks/LCtrail/Timeline.htm - Lewis and Clark in South Dakota Guide

Badlands info: http://www.nps.gov/badl/

On Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Badlands_National_Park